Dempsey's Restaurant
True to its roots while open to the interesting and new, Dempsey’s lures diners from near and far home to the Kiln.
– Story and photos by Lisa Monti, photos by Ellis Anderson 
Shrimp and Grits with Creamy Swamp Sauce
The multiple choices listed under appetizers, seafood, steaks, and chicken present a happy dilemma for diners, especially on a first visit. But for Dempsey’s regular customers — and there are many of them — it’s easy to fall back on their favorites: the abundant platter for two (gumbo, stuffed crab, shrimp, oysters, redfish, catfish and crawfish pies), the charbroiled oysters (Dempsey’s specialty), the famous shrimp and grits, or fresh grilled fish.
“It’s the same menu, but it’s grown at each place,” she said. “We even added Sunday brunch.” 
Owner Diane Hennessy's father owned Jack Dempsey's in New Orleans for 36 years.
Diane was following in her restaurateur father Andrew Marino’s footsteps in 2003 when she opened Dempsey’s on Coleman Avenue in Waveland “two years and two weeks before the storm hit.”
His restaurant, Jack Dempsey’s, operated on Poland Avenue in the Ninth Ward of New Orleans for 36 years. After Katrina, Hennessy operated her restaurant for four years on Lower Bay Road in Lakeshore, and six years ago Dempsey’s moved to its current location on Kiln-Delisle Road. Wherever the location, customers have followed. There are locals, out-of-towners, and out-of-state travelers who fill the dining room for lunch and pack the place for dinner. “It’s very busy, especially on weekends,” Hennessy said. To keep things rolling along, Dempsey’s has an efficient, friendly staff of about 40. During a recent busy lunch service, several waitstaff joined around a table to sing “Happy Birthday” to a regular customer. At a nearby table, another server artfully handled a table of seven who wanted separate checks. 
Half a shrimp po-boy
Grilled redfish with eggplant fries
But back to the food. It’s New Orleans style — stuffed artichokes, frog legs, seafood platters — and plentiful and handsomely presented on each plate.
For our lunch, the seafood gumbo was rich, the fried shrimp poboy on chewy Leidenheimer French bread was wonderful, the tasty eggplant fries were crunchy and somehow oil-free, and the two large grilled redfish fillets were seasoned perfectly. The shrimp and grits topped with creamy Swamp sauce was something to behold and savor. “It’s how my dad always did it,” Hennessy said. “He always said people eat with their eyes. I’m following in his footsteps.” Hennessy’s kitchen prepares everything in house, including the rich seafood Swamp Sauce that tops the fried grit cake on the top-selling shrimp and grits entree. “Nothing goes out of the kitchen that’s store bought. I take pride in the food and want it to taste delicious,” Hennessy said. 
And while the menu is biased toward seafood, the Angus steaks don’t take a back seat at Dempsey’s. In fact, Hennessy said, the restaurant earned second place among Mississippi steakhouses in a magazine poll.
If the menu wasn’t packed enough, a chalkboard in the center of the dining room announces some delicious new treats: steamed seafood including Royal Reds, Dungeness and snow crabs, and — a rarity in Hancock County — escargot, a favorite of Diane’s. “I like to cook things you can’t get anywhere else,” she said. Dempsey’s has 120 seats in the large dining room and bar area, but the place usually fills up with families and groups so reservations are a good way to get around wait time, which can stretch out to an hour at night. And if the food weren’t enough to attract people to the Kiln, Dempsey’s hosts an annual Cruisin’ the Coast party. This year it’s on September 30 and will feature popular New Orleans performer Harvey Jesus. 
Cuz’s Old Town Oyster Bar & Grill
Three generations of a coast family check out the new location of a popular restaurant that's a three-generation operation. The result? An exceptionally satisfying meal.
- story by Lisa Monti, photos by Lisa Monti and Ellis Anderson 
Cuz’s is open daily at 108 South Beach Boulevard.
Hours are 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday–Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday. (228) 467-3707
A bit before the lunch time crush, we settled into a booth overlooking the courtyard seating, which was filling up as quickly as the dining room on this warm weekday with regulars, workers on lunch break, and visitors with shopping bags.
Cuz’s opened last year with a new name to reflect its new beach location – Cuz’s Old Town Oyster Bar & Grill – and polished up the popular seafood-packed menu with some new items like smoked redfish and tuna appetizers, chargrilled oysters, and pastas. The new grilled items are winning raves from customers while the old favorites, like fresh seafood served boiled or fried, are as popular as ever. The seafood is local and it’s cooked fresh. We three generations – my niece Becky Monti Necaise, her daughter Emily, and me – bounced around the menu before settling on our favorites from the poboy section, where there’s no way you can go wrong. One half oyster poboy, one half shrimp and one half roast beef, with shared onion rings and fried sweet potatoes on the side. We waited for our orders while visiting with other customers going in out of the dining room and talked briefly with Christy as she worked her way around the tables, checking to make sure things were flowing smoothly. 
Cuz’s, she said, is a real family operation with the Barnes daughters and grandchildren playing a part in the day-to-day operation. “So it is definitely a family affair,” Christy said. What’s better at the height of hunger than a properly made poboy on chewy french bread, fried seafood spilling out and dressed modestly with shredded lettuce, tomato slices and crispy pickles? Not much. The shrimp were fresh and tasty, seasoned and fried just right, as were the oysters. The onion rings, something of a rare treat for me, were the crispiest I can remember ever having, and those sweet potato fries were as delicious as any side you could order. The roast beef, Emily reported, was juicy, full of flavor and piled high. The new location in the French Settlement building also gave the owners some room to add offerings for their customers. Frozen daiquiris have been a big hit, and so have the gourmet popsicles handcrafted in small batches by Gulfport-based Pop Brothers. Don’t be surprised if the Cuz’s crew keeps coming up with new things to keep the restaurant fresh for its new and regular customers. 
Breakfast in the Bay
Lisa Monti takes on a tour of some of the most popular breakfast spots in Bay St. Louis. Visiting any one of them is a surefire way to start your day off with a smile - and a satisfied appetite.
The Mockingbird Café's legendary biscuits with homemade jams
Mockingbird Cafe
110 South Second Street Bay St. Louis (228) 467-8383
Mockingbird Cafe, a local favorite since 2006, has outdoor seating and breakfast is served Monday through Saturday from 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. and Sunday from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. Take your pick of eggs your way, omelettes, frittatas, waffles, yogurt, fresh fruit and various sides. Not surprising for a place that started out as a coffee shop, the coffee here is fresh and served all day. Pick from espresso, latte, cappuccino, mocha, iced and specials along with hot and iced tea.
Fresh fruit, homemade granola and yogurt are popular breakfast fare at the "The Bird."
Buttercup Cafe
112 North Second Street Bay St. Louis (228) 466-4930 
Breakfast at the Buttercup
The tables on the tiny front porch and in the shady front yard of Buttercup Cafe on Second are favorite spots for breakfast and people watching. Eating at one of the tables inside the cafe also is comfortable and casual for lunch and breakfast. And the fact that breakfast is served all day is another endearing thing that keeps attracting locals and visitors to the bright yellow building just off Main Street. Some favorites are the omelettes, pancakes and the roasted potatoes on the side.
Buttercup Cafe is open daily, 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Lulu's on Main
126 Main Street Bay St. Louis (228) 463-1670
The breakfast menu at LuLu’s on Main is plentiful, playful, and reliably delicious, from the kitchen of chef Nancy Moynan. The Breakthrough Breakfast Sandwich (cheese, fried egg and ham, bacon or sausage on a toast English muffin) is getting rave reviews. There’s Lu’s Bagel, the top of the line “everything” open-faced bagel with smoked salmon, crème fraiche, red onion, capers and sliced hard-boiled egg. For balance, there’s low-fat yogurt & fruit parfait topped with granola. And for something that combines the best of breakfast and lunch, the fried chicken beignets sprinkled with powered sugar seem totally well worth the calories.
LuLu’s breakfast is available Tuesday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. 
The screened porch at Lulu's
Sunrise Cafe
315 Reese Street Bay St. Louis (228) 216-9777
Sunrise Cafe is a cozy spot at the corner of U.S. 90 and Dunbar Avenue that’s often packed with locals, so table sharing isn’t unusual. Customers come in for the cooked-to-order breakfast (and lunch) dishes and other favorites including hearty omelettes, breakfast sandwiches and buttermilk pancakes. There are specials, too. It’s open Monday through Thursday from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 7 a.m. to noon.
Sunrise Cafe, breakfast sandwich
Ana's Cafe
2400 McLaurin Street Waveland (228) 344-3223
Grammy's Donuts and More
308 Hwy 90 Bay St. Louis (228) 466-5037
More donuts can be found at Grammy’s Donuts & More, where you might find yourself in a long line at the drive through to get your order. It’s that popular. The donuts made here bear no real relation to the manufactured variety except for the shape. The texture, glaze and flavor will have you understanding you've never enjoyed a real donut before. It's hard to believe that such a divine dining experience.
The "More" part of the name means daily specials (a recent weekday featured shrimp & grits, and a pork chop breakfast), full traditional breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches on fresh croissants made in-house ($2.99). Try a breakfast and then a donut for dessert. You can skip lunch and not miss it. 
Breakfast at Grammy's
Grammy's croissant breakfast sandwich
Beignets Always Hot!
Ana’s Cafe offers the best in tasty baked goods and diner staples in Waveland. And don't forget the donuts!
- story and photos by Lisa Monti 
The sweet fried dough practically melted in one bite, a decadent reminder of how deliciously addictive a superior donut can be. And yes, the second donut hole was just as airy and fabulous, the perfect mix of sweet, salty and fat.
When our breakfast orders arrived, both were tasty and plentiful, just what the first meal of the day should be. Ana’s Special holds top billing on the menu with classic fare: 2 eggs any style, grits or hash browns, toast or biscuit. Add bacon, sausage or ham or pancakes if you need more fuel. The daily special was a hearty omelet built around spinach and mushrooms, with hash browns and a large biscuit for good measure. If you prefer a sweet start to the day rather than a savory breakfast, relax and enjoy. The display case in Ana’s Cafe is filled with enormous cinnamon rolls, flaky Danishes, crispy shoe soles, rich chocolate croissants, strudels, turnovers, apple fritters and muffins. And beignets. Yes, beignets. As the sign says, “Beignets Always Hot!” Lunch at Ana’s is standard hearty fare, too. The menu includes roast beef, burgers, hamburger steak, pork chops, salads, chicken tenders and wings and shrimp grilled or fried. There’s also a daily lunch special Monday through Friday.
But back to those amazing glazed donuts that lucky customers have been sampling. They haven’t been on the menu, but they’re coming back. Ana’s will begin serving donuts on April 28 but only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. You can call in your orders.
Ana’s Cafe is open daily from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 6 a.m. to noon on Sunday. 
Local Lenten Delights
For many coast residents, the Lenten meals served at local churches are a blessing, serving up fresh local seafood at irresistible prices!
- by Lisa Monti 
Local Lenten meals make the season a favorite with seafood lovers
St. Rose de Lima
St. Rose de Lima - fresh from the fryer
Looking for lunch? St. Rose de Lima Parish’s annual fish fry is from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. every Friday during Lent. For an $8 donation, you get freshly prepared fried catfish with potato salad, green beans, bread and dessert. It’s available for dine-in and carry out at the Holy Spirit Center at 301 South Necaise Avenue, across from the church. Delivery is available for 10 or more. Call 467-9700 to order.
Our Lady of the Gulf
St. Clare Parish
St. Ann Parish
Dunk's Southern Style Buffet
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Dunk’s Southern Style Buffet & Catering is all about being Southern. The Waveland restaurant promises “good ole down-home soul Southern cooking. Southern Food. Southern Style. The Southern Way.”
Owner Lisa Dunklin keeps that promise at lunch with classics like fried chicken, homemade mac and cheese, green beans, red beans and rice, fried okra, fried chicken gizzards, chicken and dumplings, cornbread, you get the idea. The restaurant has been open for a year in the post-Katrina building that was originally a business incubator. The restaurant space is airy and bright and comfortable for enjoying a quick bite or a leisurely lunch. |
Coast Cuisine
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At lunch recently, the fried chicken and smothered pork chops were front and center on the buffet line and both were first rate.
The chicken, billed as Dunk's Famous Fried Chicken, was crispy, well seasoned and moist, the pork chops were fork-tender in a dark gravy and the mac and cheese was hearty. A fellow diner raved about the sweet potato casserole topped with tiny marshmallows.
Dunklin, who cooks all the food at Dunk’s, said the fried chicken is by far the most popular dish, followed by her red beans. “The fried chicken is our no. 1 seller,” she said. Her secret: the mix of seasonings. Like a lot of good cooks, she wouldn’t reveal much else about the process or ingredients.
The chicken, billed as Dunk's Famous Fried Chicken, was crispy, well seasoned and moist, the pork chops were fork-tender in a dark gravy and the mac and cheese was hearty. A fellow diner raved about the sweet potato casserole topped with tiny marshmallows.
Dunklin, who cooks all the food at Dunk’s, said the fried chicken is by far the most popular dish, followed by her red beans. “The fried chicken is our no. 1 seller,” she said. Her secret: the mix of seasonings. Like a lot of good cooks, she wouldn’t reveal much else about the process or ingredients.
Dunklin said that the Sunday buffett has developed a following. Little wonder. Consider a recent “Super Sunday Menu”: marinated BBQ’d baby back ribs, Italian marinated baked chicken, Southern-style seasoned greens, chicken and seafood gumbo (that gets shout outs on the website) and lima beans with smoked neck bone. Plus that famous fried chicken and homemade sweet cornbread.
And, yes, there are assorted cakes, pies and cobblers for dessert for those who pace themselves.
Prices for the buffet are $10.69 Monday through Thursday and $12.69 Friday through Sunday for adults. Children can eat for $6.99 weekdays and $7.99 on weekends. Carry out boxes start at $8.99.
And, yes, there are assorted cakes, pies and cobblers for dessert for those who pace themselves.
Prices for the buffet are $10.69 Monday through Thursday and $12.69 Friday through Sunday for adults. Children can eat for $6.99 weekdays and $7.99 on weekends. Carry out boxes start at $8.99.
Loving Up on Chocolate
A local chef who studied in the world capital of chocolate confections offers up divine treats in time for Valentine's Day.
- story by Lisa Monti, photography by Julie Ragusa
- story by Lisa Monti, photography by Julie Ragusa
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Thank heaven for the sweet celebration of Valentine’s Day in the heart of February, a month that tends to be damp and cloudy. And a special thanks for all manner of chocolate, by far the most preferred treat to share and savor on Feb. 14.
Not that enjoying chocolate is confined to this month. There actually are three official National Chocolate Days on the calendar of candy holidays: July 7, Oct. 28 and Dec. 28. Chocolate fills our King cakes during the Carnival season, flavors the snowballs of summer and puts the divine in divinity fudge. Not only is chocolate a comforting treat, the dark version has health benefits. And the taste, the melt-in-your-mouth texture is lagniappe. There’s plenty to love about chocolate. “It’s addictive, like coffee,” said Julie Ragusa, executive chef at Mockingbird Cafe. “You’ve got to have it.” For several years, the professional chef lived in Belgium, home of Godiva chocolates, where “there’s a chocolate shop on every corner.” |
Coast Cuisine
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Ragusa took advantage of being in the middle of that chocolate-rich culture as part of her professional development. “I learned everything I could about chocolate,” she said, including making a vegan, organic version. She formed her own small chocolate company and hosted parties, pairing chocolates with wine and champagne, and taught classes on chocolate-making with dairy alternatives.
Now, she’s about to branch out into truffle-making as a side enterprise. The truffles come in two rich parts: a chocolate ganache center and a coating of high quality chocolate that gives it a crunchy shell. Then the truffle is topped with nuts, coconut or sea salt, taking it to another eye-rolling level.
Now, she’s about to branch out into truffle-making as a side enterprise. The truffles come in two rich parts: a chocolate ganache center and a coating of high quality chocolate that gives it a crunchy shell. Then the truffle is topped with nuts, coconut or sea salt, taking it to another eye-rolling level.
Julie's truffles are available in packages of 8 (2 of each flavor) for $15. See ordering info at end of article.
“I’m so excited about working with chocolate,” she said. “I love coming up with new flavors.”
For Valentine’s Day, the Mockingbird will have red velvet cake, heart-shaped King cakes and a double chocolate cake topped with chocolate truffles. Chef Ragusa personally will be making and selling handmade chocolate truffles in an assortment of flavors for purchase through her Facebook page or via Mockingbird Cafe. Look for prices and varieties to be posted soon.
For Valentine’s Day, the Mockingbird will have red velvet cake, heart-shaped King cakes and a double chocolate cake topped with chocolate truffles. Chef Ragusa personally will be making and selling handmade chocolate truffles in an assortment of flavors for purchase through her Facebook page or via Mockingbird Cafe. Look for prices and varieties to be posted soon.
Julie's truffles are available in packages of 8 (2 of each flavor below) for $15 (plus tax). Order one day in advance (before Feb. 12 for Valentine's Day pick-up) on Chef Julie Ragusa's Facebook page or at the Mockingbird Café, 110 S. Second Street. Orders can be picked up at the Mockingbird Café.
Buttermilk Ganache (semi- sweet)
Cafe Olé (milk chocolate)
Darkest Hour (60% dark)
Black and White (white chocolate ganache with 60% dark shell)
Buttermilk Ganache (semi- sweet)
Cafe Olé (milk chocolate)
Darkest Hour (60% dark)
Black and White (white chocolate ganache with 60% dark shell)
Zone Meals To Go
295 Suite 13 Highway 90
Bay Saint Louis, Mississippi
(228) 586-3635
Bay Saint Louis, Mississippi
(228) 586-3635
A new concept in low-carb carry-out could help busy locals keep their resolutions to eat healthy and stay in shape.
- by Lisa Monti, photos by Ellis Anderson
- by Lisa Monti, photos by Ellis Anderson
A savory snack: broccoli cheddar bites with Ranch dressing
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It’s that time again, when many of us leap optimistically aboard the healthy lifestyle train with resolutions to do/be/look/feel better in the new year.
By a happy coincidence, there’s a new and convenient eating option courtesy of Zone Meals to Go, a meal-prep service offering low-carb selections for breakfast, lunch and dinner plus snacks. “Meal prep is primarily what we’ve done for the past two years in Diamondhead,” said owner Tonya Martin as she put the finishing touches on her new storefront in the Froogles shopping center on U.S. 90. While we talked recently, several customers came in to pick up large bags filled with prepared meals while employees carted off other orders for delivery. |
Coast Cuisine
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Cinnamon rolls
All of the food is low-carb, based on the Zone Diet created by Dr. Barry Sears with the goal of balancing fat, carbs, and proteins as a way of maintaining insulin levels. Martin followed the diet herself to improve her eating habits, but after tiring of the same old meals she “got creative to make food taste good.” One big accomplishment after many attempts was to learn how to make a tasty low-carb bread.
“And here we are,” she said from inside her new location at Zone Meals To Go Low Carb Bakery & More. The decor was the handiwork of Martin’s 17-year-old daughter, Jasmine.
The meals range from 1,200 to 2,000 calories a day so they can help with weight loss and are considered diabetic-friendly, she said.
Customers who sign up for a six-day meal plan receive breakfast, lunch, dinner, two snacks and dessert each day. The meals are prepared and packaged individually for pick up or delivery twice a week.
“And here we are,” she said from inside her new location at Zone Meals To Go Low Carb Bakery & More. The decor was the handiwork of Martin’s 17-year-old daughter, Jasmine.
The meals range from 1,200 to 2,000 calories a day so they can help with weight loss and are considered diabetic-friendly, she said.
Customers who sign up for a six-day meal plan receive breakfast, lunch, dinner, two snacks and dessert each day. The meals are prepared and packaged individually for pick up or delivery twice a week.
Chicken and sausage gumbo with "rice" made from cauliflower
"Fried" chicken sandwich
Crispy Ranch chicken with sriracha sauce and spinach bake
"Potato Salad" made from cauliflower
At the new location Martin is able to respond to growing customer demand for healthy grab-and-go meals, baked goods, breads, salads and hot and cold drinks.
The meals change every three days to keep things fresh and interesting, Martin said. And customers can come in and enjoy fresh-brewed Coast Roast Coffee and hot tea, a cinnamon roll, or a meal at the cozy tables.
On a recent menu, breakfast was apple crisp, lunch included protein-packed parmesan chicken bites, dinner featured Salisbury steak with mashed “potatoes” (actually cauliflower), and desserts included a satisfying but not-too-sweet Nutter Butter parfait, and bread pudding with caramel sauce.
Customer Nancy Sorak was in to pick up her second order. She said she likes the size of the servings because cooking small portions can get complicated. “So this is great,” she said.
The meals change every three days to keep things fresh and interesting, Martin said. And customers can come in and enjoy fresh-brewed Coast Roast Coffee and hot tea, a cinnamon roll, or a meal at the cozy tables.
On a recent menu, breakfast was apple crisp, lunch included protein-packed parmesan chicken bites, dinner featured Salisbury steak with mashed “potatoes” (actually cauliflower), and desserts included a satisfying but not-too-sweet Nutter Butter parfait, and bread pudding with caramel sauce.
Customer Nancy Sorak was in to pick up her second order. She said she likes the size of the servings because cooking small portions can get complicated. “So this is great,” she said.
Nancy Sorak, stocking up for a few days
Thai chicken with celery and hot Thai sauce
The Mockingbird Café
The 'Bird turned ten this year and in just a decade, has become an indepensible part of the community fabric - for lots of different reasons.
- story and photos by Ellis Anderson, food photos courtesy Mockingbird
- story and photos by Ellis Anderson, food photos courtesy Mockingbird
New Year's in the Bay Lights Up
Locals will have a new option when it comes to welcoming in 2017 on New Year's Eve: a grand gala at the Bay St. Louis Community Hall.
- story by Lisa Monti
- story by Lisa Monti
Di Fillhart at the Starfish on Main Street
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The Starfish Café’s New Year’s Eve Gala has all the makings of a memorable celebration: delicious food and of course drinks, live music, a ball drop at midnight, and a silent auction like you’ve probably never seen before.
And it’s all for a good cause: raising funds to buy the Main Street property that houses the cafe. “The purpose is to kick off the 2017 capital campaign,” said Di Fillhart. “By December 1, 2017, we have to raise $160,000 to buy the property.” The cafe, known for its wholesome menu, is going into full celebratory mode for the gala. |
How to buy Gala tickets
Tickets to the benefit gala are $50/person and include dinner, live music and complimentary midnight champagne toast. Only a limited number will be available at the door. Tickets available at the Starfish Café, 211 Main Street, from 8 - 5pm on Friday, January 30th. Or purchase online! Go to the Starfish website, hit the Paypal "Donate" button and simply put "NYE" in the memo box!
Coast Cuisine
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The Gala Menu
BBQ Shrimp is only one delectable item on the Gala menu
Phil "Smooth" Williams and Friends will be helping locals bring in the New Year at the gala.
Patrons can choose from several food stations, including a sushi bar presented by Fatsumo’s in Pass Christian, a grits bar serving the Southern staple along with barbecued shrimp and grillades, and a slider bar with roast beef and barbecued pork among the tasty fillings. There will also be a fresh bar with veggies and fruits (chocolate is optional), and a dessert bar.
Organizers are working on other food stations, including one that involves a make-your-own waffle.
There will be a cash bar with a complimentary midnight toast and live music starting at 8 p.m., and a lighted starfish will be dropped by boom at the stroke of midnight.
“It will be an eclectic mix of food, subject to change,” said Fillhart of the ongoing preparations. But it will be fitting for a year-end celebration. “It’s the ‘end of year and my diet starts tomorrow’ kind of mix.”
Organizers are working on other food stations, including one that involves a make-your-own waffle.
There will be a cash bar with a complimentary midnight toast and live music starting at 8 p.m., and a lighted starfish will be dropped by boom at the stroke of midnight.
“It will be an eclectic mix of food, subject to change,” said Fillhart of the ongoing preparations. But it will be fitting for a year-end celebration. “It’s the ‘end of year and my diet starts tomorrow’ kind of mix.”
Lunchtime at the Starfish
About that auction. Fillhart said instead of the usual items to bid on, this one will offer all services, including lawn care, hair care, and the services of an architect, a beekeeper, and a fishing guide. Starfish Cafe is donating a five-course private party for 10 at the cafe.
“It’s a unique way to raise money and it connects the community,” she said. The winning bidders may become regular customers and make new friends they might not otherwise have met, she said.
The gala will be at the Bay St. Louis Community Center on Blaize Avenue. Tickets are $50 each and only 400 will be sold.
Everything will be eco-friendly right down to the compostable plates and glasses. Dress is “casual bling.”
“It’s a unique way to raise money and it connects the community,” she said. The winning bidders may become regular customers and make new friends they might not otherwise have met, she said.
The gala will be at the Bay St. Louis Community Center on Blaize Avenue. Tickets are $50 each and only 400 will be sold.
Everything will be eco-friendly right down to the compostable plates and glasses. Dress is “casual bling.”
Like Cheers, But With Red Gravy
Trapani's Eatery
116 North Beach Blvd.
Bay St. Louis, MS
228.467.8570
Now Open 7 Days a Week!
116 North Beach Blvd.
Bay St. Louis, MS
228.467.8570
Now Open 7 Days a Week!
If it tastes like home cooking, maybe that's because it is - for some folks in Bay St. Louis anyway!
- story by Lisa Monti, photographs by Ellis Anderson
- story by Lisa Monti, photographs by Ellis Anderson
Broiled oysters
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I’ve eaten many a meal at Trapani’s Eatery since the original restaurant opened more than 20 years ago. So many, in fact, that having a meal there sort of feels like home.
Actually, the food tastes like home. Dishes like paneed veal, an old family favorite on Sundays, and spaghetti with red gravy - not sauce - trigger childhood memories. And rightfully so. Tony Trapani and I are cousins - our mothers were sisters - and our maternal grandmother, Emma Carver, was a wonderful cook whose paneed veal and spaghetti gravy were on our Sunday rotation. When Emma cooked, she deployed all the kitchen’s resources: spices, seasonings, mixing bowls, deep pots, cast iron skillets, everything but a cookbook. |
Coast Cuisine
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Lisa's cousin, Tony Trapani
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The recipes were perfected over decades and everything she turned out, from a pot of file gumbo and platter of stuffed crabs to divinity fudge and tart lemon merengue pies, was comforting and delicious, even to a picky kid’s palate.
Luckily, Emma’s gift for cooking lives on, at least in some of us.
Luckily, Emma’s gift for cooking lives on, at least in some of us.
In the Blue Marlin bar
So whenever I’m in the mood for some tried-and-true dishes, I make it over to Tony’s, as we relatives tend to call the restaurant.
Not surprising, with coastal decor and a bar named Blue Marlin, seafood plays a big role in Trapani’s kitchen. Starters include the popular crab cakes, rich gumbo and sesame ahi tuna. A longtime favorite is the fried green tomatoes topped with crabmeat and hollandaise.
Not to put too fine a point on the seafood connection here, but every Trapani’s entree salad comes with a seafood option, and the salad packed with crawfish will totally satisfy your craving for them.
Among the got-to-try entrees, Eggplant Delacroix is a stand out - eggplant slices breaded with Progresso crumbs, just like Emma used, and topped with sauteed Gulf shrimp, onions bell peppers and mushrooms then finished with hollandaise and parmesan. I know.
The kitchen also offers great steaks, fish, ample sandwiches and homemade desserts. If you try just one, get the divine Dinwiddie Delight. I believe it’s been on the menu since Day One, so if you’re a regular, its likely you’ve already gone over the calorie cliff already.
Not surprising, with coastal decor and a bar named Blue Marlin, seafood plays a big role in Trapani’s kitchen. Starters include the popular crab cakes, rich gumbo and sesame ahi tuna. A longtime favorite is the fried green tomatoes topped with crabmeat and hollandaise.
Not to put too fine a point on the seafood connection here, but every Trapani’s entree salad comes with a seafood option, and the salad packed with crawfish will totally satisfy your craving for them.
Among the got-to-try entrees, Eggplant Delacroix is a stand out - eggplant slices breaded with Progresso crumbs, just like Emma used, and topped with sauteed Gulf shrimp, onions bell peppers and mushrooms then finished with hollandaise and parmesan. I know.
The kitchen also offers great steaks, fish, ample sandwiches and homemade desserts. If you try just one, get the divine Dinwiddie Delight. I believe it’s been on the menu since Day One, so if you’re a regular, its likely you’ve already gone over the calorie cliff already.
Crab Claws
Sometimes only hot wings will do, and the ones at Trapani’s are addictive. The wings are naked, not battered, fried to glorious crunchiness and coated with a spicy sauce. Wings (with plenty of napkins) and a glass of Chardonnay have become my Second Saturday tradition.
Sitting on the Blue Marlin balcony, overlooking the harbor, is a most pleasant way to cap off the monthly art walk. And when there’s live music on the balcony, well, a good thing gets even better.
Trapani’s restaurant and Blue Marlin bar are must-try destinations for Coast tourists, and for locals, both upstairs and downstairs are great spots for socializing with friends, old and new.
If you live on the coast, not everybody at Trapani's will know your name, but chances are lots of folks will.
Sitting on the Blue Marlin balcony, overlooking the harbor, is a most pleasant way to cap off the monthly art walk. And when there’s live music on the balcony, well, a good thing gets even better.
Trapani’s restaurant and Blue Marlin bar are must-try destinations for Coast tourists, and for locals, both upstairs and downstairs are great spots for socializing with friends, old and new.
If you live on the coast, not everybody at Trapani's will know your name, but chances are lots of folks will.
Shrimp Scampi
Claiborne Hill Grocery
The grocery store you'll want to go to when you're hungry: chow down on a great selection of fresh deli menu items and then do your shopping!
- story by Lisa Monti, photos by Ellis Anderson
- story by Lisa Monti, photos by Ellis Anderson
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You’ve heard the rule about not going to the grocery store when we’re hungry.
Forget it. When you’re feeling hungry, that’s when you should go straight to Claiborne Hill Supermarket on U.S. 90 in Waveland, where the deli staff starts work early, cracking eggs and cooking bacon and biscuits for breakfast. Early morning regulars, including police and fire department personnel, line up around 6:30 or 7 to get a breakfast plate (two scrambled eggs, grits, a biscuit and either bacon or homemade sausage) before heading to work. If you’re on a leisurely schedule, you can grab breakfast until around 11 a.m., and even later on weekends. |
Coast Cuisine
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“Breakfast is a huge part of our business in the deli,” said Elizabeth Acquistapace, who oversees the kitchen at the family-owned store. The Acquistapace family also has a supermarket in Picayune. All five of the Acquistapace siblings, including her husband, Ethan, are involved in the stores, from the building design to the day-to-day operation.
After the breakfast rush, the staff starts preparing the daily hot lunch specials, which also bring in a hungry crowd. On a recent Saturday, the choices were barbecue ribs, pork sausage, brisket and red beans along with sides including fried okra, smothered cabbage and sweet potato casserole with praline topping. The red beans, made from the Acquistapace family recipe, are flavored with store-smoked sausage, bacon, and ham hocks.
Sandwiches (including muffulettas) are popular. Construction workers favor the hamburger combo with cheese and a side of fries.
If you want a generously stuffed poboy—served hot or cold—you can choose from oysters, shrimp, catfish or roast beef. Elizabeth said the roast beef with rich gravy has a big following. “It’s a whole fresh eye of round roast that simmers for hours. It’s truly a homemade roast beef,” she said.
The French bread for the poboys is baked in the store but here’s a tip: if you’re a fan of crispy Leidenheimer bread, just ask for it.
After the breakfast rush, the staff starts preparing the daily hot lunch specials, which also bring in a hungry crowd. On a recent Saturday, the choices were barbecue ribs, pork sausage, brisket and red beans along with sides including fried okra, smothered cabbage and sweet potato casserole with praline topping. The red beans, made from the Acquistapace family recipe, are flavored with store-smoked sausage, bacon, and ham hocks.
Sandwiches (including muffulettas) are popular. Construction workers favor the hamburger combo with cheese and a side of fries.
If you want a generously stuffed poboy—served hot or cold—you can choose from oysters, shrimp, catfish or roast beef. Elizabeth said the roast beef with rich gravy has a big following. “It’s a whole fresh eye of round roast that simmers for hours. It’s truly a homemade roast beef,” she said.
The French bread for the poboys is baked in the store but here’s a tip: if you’re a fan of crispy Leidenheimer bread, just ask for it.
A variety of pasta dishes provide an alternative to fried foods. “We’re making our own fresh pasta with free range eggs and fresh semolina,” Elizabeth said. The family patriarch bought the three pasta machines in Italy. The pasta is served with sautéed zucchini, Italian sausage and homemade pesto.
Everything sold is made in the store, and there’s enough variety that the menu stays basically the same, though sometimes you’ll find meatloaf or chicken and dumplings. The variety gets smaller in the evening but you can still get a satisfying supper up until 8 p.m. or so.
A recent summertime lunch treat tells a lot about the deli’s use of seasonal fare. “We had a short Creole tomato season but we had some pretty hot house tomatoes,” said Elizabeth. “So who can pass up a tomato sandwich on white bread with mayo, salt and pepper?”
Even though the price of ingredients fluctuates, one thing is steady at the deli: the prices. The 6-inch roast beef poboy is $5.99. A breakfast plate is $2.49. The lunch plates start at $5.99. “We try to keep it as reasonable as we can to give our customers good value,” she said.
There are healthy options too, with a full salad bar in the back of the store (by the seafood counter). For $4.99 a pound you can make a meal-sized salad with fresh fixings - including chicken and on occasion, boiled shrimp.
Breakfast and lunch is prepared seven days a week. You can call ahead (228-466-2610) to see what’s cooking and enjoy your meal at the counter in the front of the store where there’s complimentary Community Coffee. And check out the freezer section next to the deli for chicken and Andouille gumbo, bisques, soups, and casseroles.
Everything sold is made in the store, and there’s enough variety that the menu stays basically the same, though sometimes you’ll find meatloaf or chicken and dumplings. The variety gets smaller in the evening but you can still get a satisfying supper up until 8 p.m. or so.
A recent summertime lunch treat tells a lot about the deli’s use of seasonal fare. “We had a short Creole tomato season but we had some pretty hot house tomatoes,” said Elizabeth. “So who can pass up a tomato sandwich on white bread with mayo, salt and pepper?”
Even though the price of ingredients fluctuates, one thing is steady at the deli: the prices. The 6-inch roast beef poboy is $5.99. A breakfast plate is $2.49. The lunch plates start at $5.99. “We try to keep it as reasonable as we can to give our customers good value,” she said.
There are healthy options too, with a full salad bar in the back of the store (by the seafood counter). For $4.99 a pound you can make a meal-sized salad with fresh fixings - including chicken and on occasion, boiled shrimp.
Breakfast and lunch is prepared seven days a week. You can call ahead (228-466-2610) to see what’s cooking and enjoy your meal at the counter in the front of the store where there’s complimentary Community Coffee. And check out the freezer section next to the deli for chicken and Andouille gumbo, bisques, soups, and casseroles.
Harbor House Steamer
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Come by land or by sea, but come ready for tasty meals. The Harbor House's new management combines a fresh food with a knockout view for a satisfying dining experience.
- story by Lisa Monti, photos by Ellis Anderson |
3410 Yacht Club Circle
Diamondhead, MS 228-222-4645 Open daily Sunday–Thursday 11am to 9pm Friday & Saturday 11am to 10pm |
The Scarlett Red Snapper, topped with sweet crabmeat and hollandaise sauce.
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You know you can expect fresh seafood when the restaurant reserves dock space for customers who arrive by boat. That’s how they do it at Harbor House Steamer in Diamondhead.
Looking out of the picture windows in the spacious upstairs dining room, you get a sweeping view of the Bay, the marshes, and the boat dock below a broad porch where tables are available for outside dining service. Restaurateur Jim McCann took over ownership of the Harbor House in February, which he found in his search for a waterfront restaurant after selling two restaurants in Florida. Now a resident of Diamondhead, McCann has made only subtle changes, mainly in food presentation. “We didn’t want to change the recipes or the menu because they were already so successful,” said Tim Marotta, who runs the front of the house. |
Coast Cuisine
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photo courtesy Harbor House
The view from the deck
The menu covers all the bases, and as its waterfront location suggests, seafood prevails in salads, pasta, sandwiches, appetizers and the namesake categories on the menu: By Sea and Steamed Goods.
By Sea (as opposed to the pork and beef that star in the By Land entrees) showcases whole flounder, Asian ahi tuna, trout almondine and stuffed crab, along with the always-popular shrimp and oyster platters.
Steamed Goods include some over-the-top offerings for a crowd. The Admiral’s Steamer generously serves at least 10 diners with five pounds of steamed Alaskan King crab, Royal Red shrimp, snow crab and Dungeness crab with charbroiled oysters along with drawn butter, though it doesn’t say how much butter it takes to go with all that seafood. The price is an eye-popping $499.95 and yes, a couple have been ordered, Marotta said. Couples, rather than crowds, go for the signature steamed seafood.
“We have sold quite of bit of steamers for two ($110),” he said. “It’s a good deal. You get a lot of seafood.”
Portions are generous across the board at Harbor House. Fourteen large gulf shrimp, lightly dusted and fried, practically filled the large lunch plate that was rounded out by the side of fresh broccoli and carrot.
By Sea (as opposed to the pork and beef that star in the By Land entrees) showcases whole flounder, Asian ahi tuna, trout almondine and stuffed crab, along with the always-popular shrimp and oyster platters.
Steamed Goods include some over-the-top offerings for a crowd. The Admiral’s Steamer generously serves at least 10 diners with five pounds of steamed Alaskan King crab, Royal Red shrimp, snow crab and Dungeness crab with charbroiled oysters along with drawn butter, though it doesn’t say how much butter it takes to go with all that seafood. The price is an eye-popping $499.95 and yes, a couple have been ordered, Marotta said. Couples, rather than crowds, go for the signature steamed seafood.
“We have sold quite of bit of steamers for two ($110),” he said. “It’s a good deal. You get a lot of seafood.”
Portions are generous across the board at Harbor House. Fourteen large gulf shrimp, lightly dusted and fried, practically filled the large lunch plate that was rounded out by the side of fresh broccoli and carrot.
“Anything fried is hand breaded, even the kids’ chicken tenders,” he said. For that reason, the restaurant sells loads of seafood poboys and platters.
The number one best seller, though, is the Scarlet Red Snapper, deliciously pan fried and topped with sweet crabmeat and hollandaise sauce. It was the “I’m getting that next time” item at our table.
Besides lunch and dinner service, Harbor House hosts lots of parties in the open area downstairs that can accommodate up to 300 guests like one party last month. “We get a lot of people celebrating here,” Marotta said.
Harbor House seats about 185 in the dining room, deck, and bar. They’re warming up the big screen TVs for fans of college and pro football to come enjoy the game with food and drinks. And the restaurant just kicked off a Thursday night special: kids eat free with the purchase of a dinner entree.
Whether you come by boat or by car, whatever you do, come with an appetite.
The number one best seller, though, is the Scarlet Red Snapper, deliciously pan fried and topped with sweet crabmeat and hollandaise sauce. It was the “I’m getting that next time” item at our table.
Besides lunch and dinner service, Harbor House hosts lots of parties in the open area downstairs that can accommodate up to 300 guests like one party last month. “We get a lot of people celebrating here,” Marotta said.
Harbor House seats about 185 in the dining room, deck, and bar. They’re warming up the big screen TVs for fans of college and pro football to come enjoy the game with food and drinks. And the restaurant just kicked off a Thursday night special: kids eat free with the purchase of a dinner entree.
Whether you come by boat or by car, whatever you do, come with an appetite.
We All Scream For Ice Cream
Join us as we visit five local establishment serving frozen desserts, sampling homemade gelatos, sorbets and ice creams in gourmet flavors, as well as frozen yogurt, root beer floats Dipping Dots. But hurry, before it melts.
- story and photos by Lisa Monti, additional photos, Ellis Anderson
- story and photos by Lisa Monti, additional photos, Ellis Anderson
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It doesn’t have to be summertime to get a craving for ice cream, but it’s steamy out there - luckily for us - we have a variety of places around town to get a cool scoop in all sorts of delicious variations. Here’s what we found:
When Nancy Moynan worked at the fabled Commander’s Palace, she found she liked making up different combinations of ice cream flavors. “It kind of stuck with me,” said the chef and owner of LuLu’s on Main (126 Main Street). For that, ice cream fans can be very grateful. Nancy makes her homemade ice cream in small batches every day, all year around. The flavor of the day could be blueberry cream cheese, coffee, maybe goat cheese chartreuse (try it before you make a face). |
Coast Cuisine
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Homemade blueberry cream cheese and coffee, photo courtesy Lulu's
“I just use all natural ingredients, basically cream, sugar and fruit or cheese,” Moynan said, making something so delicious sound so simple.
No matter the temperature or season, customers happily end their meals with an ice cream or a sorbet for dessert. “Sometimes we’ll sell ice cream like crazy in the winter months. It doesn’t have to be a special time year. It’s just a special treat,” she said.
At Sycamore House Restaurant (210 Main St.), the homemade ice cream is billed as fresh flavors of the moment and the offerings are generously varied: creole cream cheese, mint chocolate chip, coffee, blueberry, roasted marshmallow, peach buttermilk, salted caramel.
One scoop or two? A taste test of all the flavors didn’t bring on brain freeze, but did set off an avalanche of adjectives. Tart buttermilk peach. Salty-sweet caramel. Richly satisfying cream cheese. Robust coffee. One taste and it becomes your favorite. Until the next taste. And the next. Pick any one of these treats and you can’t go wrong.
Sycamore House customers too full after their meal are known to come back just for something sweet. Enjoy a bowl on the porch, in the dining room, or at the small bar if there’s room.
No matter the temperature or season, customers happily end their meals with an ice cream or a sorbet for dessert. “Sometimes we’ll sell ice cream like crazy in the winter months. It doesn’t have to be a special time year. It’s just a special treat,” she said.
At Sycamore House Restaurant (210 Main St.), the homemade ice cream is billed as fresh flavors of the moment and the offerings are generously varied: creole cream cheese, mint chocolate chip, coffee, blueberry, roasted marshmallow, peach buttermilk, salted caramel.
One scoop or two? A taste test of all the flavors didn’t bring on brain freeze, but did set off an avalanche of adjectives. Tart buttermilk peach. Salty-sweet caramel. Richly satisfying cream cheese. Robust coffee. One taste and it becomes your favorite. Until the next taste. And the next. Pick any one of these treats and you can’t go wrong.
Sycamore House customers too full after their meal are known to come back just for something sweet. Enjoy a bowl on the porch, in the dining room, or at the small bar if there’s room.
At the Sycamore House, Lisa tried samples of homemade chocolate chip, creole cream cheese and blueberry.
When a restaurant calls itself a creperie, you know it’s serious about dessert. And for a small place (25 seats), Cannella International Creperie & More (1113 U.S. 90) packs a lot into the menu, including four gelato and four sorbet flavors.
“The gelato and sorbet we make ourselves,” said Roberto Zito, who owns Cannella with wife Toni. You can order either with the made-fresh crepes or alongside the baked apple dessert, but Roberto said, “the gelato is so good, most people enjoy it by itself.”
The current gelato menu lists espresso, pistachio honey ricotta (just-right richness and chunky), cioccolato, bourbon creme brûlée with the right amount of sweetness and espresso gelato. Sorbet flavors are blood orange ginger, a refreshingly tart limoncello, mango lime chile with a spicy kick and tasty red berry Prosecco.
Order one, two and three scoops served in a cup or in a large waffle cone.
The flavors change periodically because customers and the owners like the variety. “We eat it, too!” said Toni.
“The gelato and sorbet we make ourselves,” said Roberto Zito, who owns Cannella with wife Toni. You can order either with the made-fresh crepes or alongside the baked apple dessert, but Roberto said, “the gelato is so good, most people enjoy it by itself.”
The current gelato menu lists espresso, pistachio honey ricotta (just-right richness and chunky), cioccolato, bourbon creme brûlée with the right amount of sweetness and espresso gelato. Sorbet flavors are blood orange ginger, a refreshingly tart limoncello, mango lime chile with a spicy kick and tasty red berry Prosecco.
Order one, two and three scoops served in a cup or in a large waffle cone.
The flavors change periodically because customers and the owners like the variety. “We eat it, too!” said Toni.
A sampling of sorbet flavors at Canella
Cypress Cafe (300 South Second St.) is the place to get the futuristic Dippin’ Dots Ice Cream, those tiny spheres of ice cream that melt away to creamy goodness in your mouth. One popular flavor is Cookies ’n Cream studded with generous chunks of Oreos. The cafe also sells Chocolate, Rainbow, Strawberry and sometimes Mint Chocolate. The dots are scooped out of containers held in a special freezer and served by the cupful. Lots of cups.
Chef Sherry Prater says students from the nearby schools are huge fans of Dippin’ Dots and they come in regularly for their favorite flavors. “You don’t want to run out,” said the chef. “You should see those disappointed little faces.”
Grownup ice cream fans lean more toward Cypress Cafe’s vanilla served atop a chocolate chip brownie, crowned with whipped cream, chocolate caramel and Prater’s praline-candied pecans.
Chef Sherry Prater says students from the nearby schools are huge fans of Dippin’ Dots and they come in regularly for their favorite flavors. “You don’t want to run out,” said the chef. “You should see those disappointed little faces.”
Grownup ice cream fans lean more toward Cypress Cafe’s vanilla served atop a chocolate chip brownie, crowned with whipped cream, chocolate caramel and Prater’s praline-candied pecans.
Dipping Dots and browning sundaes and rootbeer floats at Cypress Café
Over at Purple Banana (300 South Second St.), cool treats come in eight flavors of frozen yogurt and more than 40 toppings. Do the math. Or rather, work your way through the standard selections of self-serve froyo - vanilla, strawberry, cheesecake, cake batter and triple chocolate - or go for the seasonal offerings of cappuccino, tangerine mango and butter pecan (if you’re remembering something you had that was minty, that probably was last holiday season).
Picking toppings can be a little challenging, just because there are so many delicious choices: coconut, pecans, chocolate chip, Oreos, Butter Fingers, and many more. Enjoy your frozen yogurt in cups or cones (waffle and small sugar cones). At the cash register, guess the weight of your serving and it's free if you're right!
Picking toppings can be a little challenging, just because there are so many delicious choices: coconut, pecans, chocolate chip, Oreos, Butter Fingers, and many more. Enjoy your frozen yogurt in cups or cones (waffle and small sugar cones). At the cash register, guess the weight of your serving and it's free if you're right!
LuLu’s on Main
126 Main St.
(228) 463-1670
Sycamore House
210 Main St.
(228) 469-0107
Cannella Creperie and More
1113 U.S. 90
(228) 467-4110
Cypress Cafe
300 South Second St.
(228) 466-4877
Purple Banana
107 Court St.
(228) 466-2978
126 Main St.
(228) 463-1670
Sycamore House
210 Main St.
(228) 469-0107
Cannella Creperie and More
1113 U.S. 90
(228) 467-4110
Cypress Cafe
300 South Second St.
(228) 466-4877
Purple Banana
107 Court St.
(228) 466-2978
Rum Kitchen
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Since 1984 John "Chappy" Chapman has been feeding coast residents the foods they love. His new restaurant offers a fresh twist on old favorites.
- story by Lisa Monti, photos by Ellis Anderson |
Rum Kitchen
324 Hwy 90 Waveland, MS (228) 467-9099 |
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In this subtropical climate, where we treasure our sand beaches, barrier islands and the bright tastes of summer, it’s not much of a leap to slip into full tropical mode. That just got even easier now that Rum Kitchen is open at 324 U.S. 90 in Waveland.
Longtime restaurateur John “Chappy” Chapman took inspiration from the Caribbean to create the dishes and decor of his newest venture. “Fresh and new” is what Chappy was going for in Rum Kitchen with flavors of lime, coconut, ginger, and cilantro. Jerk chicken with mango salsa, fried plantain and mahi mahi with creole tomato chutney are among the freshly prepared menu items. |
Coast Cuisine
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Chappy, whose original seafood restaurant opened in Long Beach in 1984, said that Hurricane Katrina “completely uprooted” his life and that he’s thrilled to finally be back home in Waveland. “I’m trying to get back to my life that I love so much,” he said. Not one to look back, Chappy said, “I’m trying to move ahead with new ideas, fresh ideas.”
The Caribbean flair is found throughout the dining area and even into the ladies’ room, where leftover wood takes an artistic turn. Chappy credits his wife Starr and his sister, New Orleans artist Connie Chapman, for pulling together all the pieces and parts to give the restaurant its tropical look.
The taste, though, is what keeps customers coming back, like the starter choices to share with the table: avocado mango dip, seafood hushpuppies and Yea Mon Nachos (pulled pork, black beans, jalapeños, tomatoes, red onion, lime cream, cilantro, and tons of melted cheese).
The Caribbean flair is found throughout the dining area and even into the ladies’ room, where leftover wood takes an artistic turn. Chappy credits his wife Starr and his sister, New Orleans artist Connie Chapman, for pulling together all the pieces and parts to give the restaurant its tropical look.
The taste, though, is what keeps customers coming back, like the starter choices to share with the table: avocado mango dip, seafood hushpuppies and Yea Mon Nachos (pulled pork, black beans, jalapeños, tomatoes, red onion, lime cream, cilantro, and tons of melted cheese).
Tacos with fish and various fillings are on menus everywhere these days but at Rum Kitchen the Off the Grid tacos come in some unique iterations. Choose beef, seafood, lamb, chicken, duck, pork, and vegetarian, all served on 4-inch corn tortillas.
The brisket has big flavors accented by BBQ sauce, cilantro, and crunchy fried shallots. Flavorful Jerk Chicken is sweetened with mango salsa. The popular Miss Queen doubles down with pulled pork, jalapeño salsa, spicy and vinegary BBQ sauce and roasted corn relish.
Tacos come in twos, threes and fours with one or two sides. Coconut mango rice is a pleasant sweet surprise, light and flavorful. The Callaloo-smothered greens got raves on two lunch outings. Also available are sweet potato fries, black beans with chorizo, grilled asparagus and mashed potatoes.
The brisket has big flavors accented by BBQ sauce, cilantro, and crunchy fried shallots. Flavorful Jerk Chicken is sweetened with mango salsa. The popular Miss Queen doubles down with pulled pork, jalapeño salsa, spicy and vinegary BBQ sauce and roasted corn relish.
Tacos come in twos, threes and fours with one or two sides. Coconut mango rice is a pleasant sweet surprise, light and flavorful. The Callaloo-smothered greens got raves on two lunch outings. Also available are sweet potato fries, black beans with chorizo, grilled asparagus and mashed potatoes.
The sandwiches-and-burgers menu includes the standout ground chuck burger and the grilled mahi mahi with creole seasoning. Both drew raves recently from lunch customers.
The Me Hearty Plates offer even more innovative choices, like braised lamb in a tomato curry, grilled chicken with the restaurant’s signature sauce, red curry shrimp, ribs and a char gilled ribeye with garlic chutney.
Mahi Mahi, jerk chicken and brisket are found into the salad selections, too. For dessert, dig into the Bahama Mama bread pudding, made fresh daily, or Key lime pie, among other decadent selections. Go ahead. Pretend you’re on vacation.
Rum Kitchen is open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., serving lunch and dinner. There is a full bar. Call 228-467-9099.
The Me Hearty Plates offer even more innovative choices, like braised lamb in a tomato curry, grilled chicken with the restaurant’s signature sauce, red curry shrimp, ribs and a char gilled ribeye with garlic chutney.
Mahi Mahi, jerk chicken and brisket are found into the salad selections, too. For dessert, dig into the Bahama Mama bread pudding, made fresh daily, or Key lime pie, among other decadent selections. Go ahead. Pretend you’re on vacation.
Rum Kitchen is open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., serving lunch and dinner. There is a full bar. Call 228-467-9099.
The Sunrise Café
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There are times when eating breakfast for lunch makes perfect sense and the Sunrise Café is the local go-to spot for both.
- story and photos by Lisa Monti |
315 Reese St.
Bay St. Louis 228-216-9777 Hours: Monday through Thursday, 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 7 a.m. to noon. |
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There’s breakfast and there’s lunch. And then there’s the time when eating breakfast for lunch makes perfect, satisfying sense.
Lucky for you Sunrise Cafe, a cozy spot at Dunbar Avenue and U.S. 90 on the service road behind C Spire, offers delicious breakfast dishes from early morning to afternoon closing time. And lunch, too. “I do cooked-to-order breakfast, sandwiches, soups and plate lunches,” said owner Cindy Kane. The daily lunch special might be red beans and rice, pork chops, lasagna or meatloaf. “It depends on the day and what mood I wake up in,” she laughingly explained. |
Coast Cuisine
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Ribbon-cutting photo courtesy Hancock Chamber
Kane opened the cafe in November 2013 after years of waiting tables and as a restaurant cook and manager. Getting off the ground was a sometimes a struggle but things started to settle down — and pick up — in the second year, she said. Now Sunrise Cafe has a loyal following.
“It’s pretty steady most days but Saturday is our busiest,” she said. “Most of our customers are local but we do have some who come from Waveland, Pass Christian and even Long Beach. And Hollywood Casino has a valet who always recommends us to guests.”
Kane said she loves her cafe’s location and the town’s welcoming, small-town atmosphere. “I have great neighbors in this little business area. We have a dentist, an orthodontist, and the cellphone company. It’s a close-knit community. When customers come in, they know each other,” she said.
“It’s pretty steady most days but Saturday is our busiest,” she said. “Most of our customers are local but we do have some who come from Waveland, Pass Christian and even Long Beach. And Hollywood Casino has a valet who always recommends us to guests.”
Kane said she loves her cafe’s location and the town’s welcoming, small-town atmosphere. “I have great neighbors in this little business area. We have a dentist, an orthodontist, and the cellphone company. It’s a close-knit community. When customers come in, they know each other,” she said.
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Owner Cindy Kane at work
Regulars know what they like, too. The Western omelet, filled with ham, onions, bell peppers, tomato and cheddar, is a favorite. Philly cheese steak, another top-selling choice, appears in three different iterations: as a sandwich or an omelet or in the ultimate hash browns with grilled onions, bell peppers, mushrooms, Swiss cheese and eggs. Want those hash browns extra crispy? Just ask your server.
There are also breakfast standards like buttermilk pancakes and hard-to-come-by dishes like corned beef hash. The menu covers all the breakfast bases.
Lunch items include tasty burgers, mixed green salads, sandwiches and melts plus made-from-scratch desserts. Homemade soup of the day is partnered with a small tossed salad or half a chicken salad croissant.
Kane said the cafe’s menu is pretty well set, but don’t be surprised if you see more sandwiches and fewer plate lunches during the heat of the summer season. And of course you can satisfy your breakfast food cravings any time the cafe is open.
There are also breakfast standards like buttermilk pancakes and hard-to-come-by dishes like corned beef hash. The menu covers all the breakfast bases.
Lunch items include tasty burgers, mixed green salads, sandwiches and melts plus made-from-scratch desserts. Homemade soup of the day is partnered with a small tossed salad or half a chicken salad croissant.
Kane said the cafe’s menu is pretty well set, but don’t be surprised if you see more sandwiches and fewer plate lunches during the heat of the summer season. And of course you can satisfy your breakfast food cravings any time the cafe is open.
Williams Pit Bar-B-Que
514 Old Spanish Trail, BSL, 226-671-9436
He can sing and he can cook and sometimes he does both at the same time. Meet Phil Williams, the man behind the bar-b-que.
- story by Lisa Monti, photos by Ellis Anderson
- story by Lisa Monti, photos by Ellis Anderson
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Music was blaring one recent morning at Williams Pit BBQ, but Phil Williams was concentrating on the kitchen and lunch ingredients. The daily special was pork chops and he was overseeing the sides and whatever else needed tending before customers started showing up at his restaurant at 514 Old Spanish Trail between Sycamore and Washington Streets.
The kitchen is familiar territory for the 70-year-old Williams, who has been cooking and catering for years. He’s in the restaurant seven days a week “unless I have a major catering job or gig, then we have to close,” he said. “You know I’m a musician and I go out of state sometimes.” To read more about Phil, read ourGood Neighbor column, March 2013 |
Coast Cuisine
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La Chula Mexican Restaurant
829 Hwy 90
Bay St. Louis
228.467.4426
South of the Border in South Mississippi, the Cleaver crew visits this family favorite restaurant in the Bay.
- story and photos by Lisa Monti
- story and photos by Lisa Monti
Steak fajita taco on soft corn tortilla
The Bugs We Love to Eat
Call 'em mudbugs or crawfish, these spicy crustaceans are one of the most sought after foods on the coast!
- by Lisa Monti
- by Lisa Monti
A Fascination With Food
Reading about food can be almost as fun as cooking it - or even eating! Columnist Carole McKellar shares some of her favorite recipe books, as well as the recipe for a classic Vinaigrette!
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In early January, resolute people join gyms and begin diets. The holidays were fun, but now it’s time to pay the piper for all that sugar and alcohol.
What an odd time to find myself drawn to cookbooks. I admit that I’m a big fan of the genre and have more cookbooks on my shelves than anyone who has tasted my cooking would imagine. I love the tempting pictures, but my greatest joy is reading the backstory of the recipes and why they are worth the time. All cookbooks are written with love and care, whether written by famous chefs or members of the Junior League, but all are not created equal. |
Bay Reads
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Holiday excesses cause me to crave simple, natural ingredients. As Michael Pollan wrote in In “Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto”, “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” Pollan advises us to shop the peripheries of the supermarket and stay out of the middle. Healthier food is found around the edges while processed foods are mostly confined to the center aisles. He also recommends that we get to know our food producers and shop as much as possible at farmers’ markets.
One of my favorite books about cooking and eating is “The Art of Simple Food” by Alice Waters, a famous chef, organic food activist, and the author of numerous books. She owns Chez Panisse, a restaurant in Berkeley, California famous for its organic, locally grown ingredients. Waters writes:
Good cooking is no mystery. You don’t need years of culinary training,
or rare and costly foodstuffs, or an encyclopedic knowledge of world cuisines.
You need only your own five senses. You need good ingredients, too, of course,
but in order to choose and prepare them, you need to experience them fully.
It’s the many dimensions of sensual experience that make cooking so
satisfying. You never stop learning.
One of my favorite books about cooking and eating is “The Art of Simple Food” by Alice Waters, a famous chef, organic food activist, and the author of numerous books. She owns Chez Panisse, a restaurant in Berkeley, California famous for its organic, locally grown ingredients. Waters writes:
Good cooking is no mystery. You don’t need years of culinary training,
or rare and costly foodstuffs, or an encyclopedic knowledge of world cuisines.
You need only your own five senses. You need good ingredients, too, of course,
but in order to choose and prepare them, you need to experience them fully.
It’s the many dimensions of sensual experience that make cooking so
satisfying. You never stop learning.
“An Everlasting Meal: Cooking With Economy and Grace” by Tamar Adler is equal parts philosophy and technique. Ms. Adler begins each chapter with a quote from the likes of Rainer Maria Rilke and Shi Tao. She pays homage to M.F.K. Fisher as a mentor. Adler describes Fisher’s book, “How to Cook a Wolf,” published in 1942, as “a book about cooking defiantly, amid the mess of war and the pains of bare pantries. Because food was rationed, it is about living well in spite of lack.”
Tamar Adler learned well from Fisher about economy and ingenuity. She describes her weekly routine of visiting farmers’ markets to buy “the leafiest, stemmiest vegetables I can find. … I start cooking them as soon as possible after shopping, when the memory of the market’s sun and cheerful tents are still in mind.” Once prepared, the squashes, greens, and root vegetables form the basis of meals for a whole week.
She’s a big fan of using seasonal vegetables in salads, omelets, soups, or gratins. As their freshness wanes, she recommends making a curry. There are recipes in the book, but most of them simply say something like, “add 2 cups cooked vegetables.” Adler uses vinaigrette on salads, beans, and rice dishes. The recipe for basic vinaigrette is so simple that you will never buy bottled dressing again.
Tamar Adler learned well from Fisher about economy and ingenuity. She describes her weekly routine of visiting farmers’ markets to buy “the leafiest, stemmiest vegetables I can find. … I start cooking them as soon as possible after shopping, when the memory of the market’s sun and cheerful tents are still in mind.” Once prepared, the squashes, greens, and root vegetables form the basis of meals for a whole week.
She’s a big fan of using seasonal vegetables in salads, omelets, soups, or gratins. As their freshness wanes, she recommends making a curry. There are recipes in the book, but most of them simply say something like, “add 2 cups cooked vegetables.” Adler uses vinaigrette on salads, beans, and rice dishes. The recipe for basic vinaigrette is so simple that you will never buy bottled dressing again.
Basic Vinaigrette
1 shallot, minced (if you have one but it’s fine without it)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 clove garlic, smashed (I use a garlic press.)
1/3 to 1/2 cup olive oil
Mix all but the olive oil and let sit for a minute. Mix in the oil.
1 shallot, minced (if you have one but it’s fine without it)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 clove garlic, smashed (I use a garlic press.)
1/3 to 1/2 cup olive oil
Mix all but the olive oil and let sit for a minute. Mix in the oil.
I use an old jelly jar and shake it well. Adler recommends removing the garlic, but I usually leave it. Other flavored vinegars can be substituted. Making this vinaigrette takes less than 5 minutes. I recently put it on a basic lettuce salad and got praise from other diners.
“An Everlasting Meal” is filled with poetry and literature. I feel that I’m not reading a cookbook, but a fabulous lifestyle idea. Readers are encouraged to think of food preparation and consumption as a celebration. Ms. Adler playfully urges us not to take cooking too seriously when she names chapters “How to Boil Water” or “How to Snatch Victory from the Jaws of Defeat.” Whenever I reread her book, I feel confident that I can cook more intuitively and successfully.
For the past 25-plus years, I have lived a primarily vegetarian life. Some meat and fish are allowed into our diets, but we prefer vegetables. My favorite cookbooks are vegetarian. My earliest attempts at cooking were aided by Mollie Katzen and her charmingly illustrated books, “The Enchanted Broccoli Forest” and “Moosewood Cookbook.”
These days I like to consult “The Complete Vegetarian Cookbook” by America’s Test Kitchen. This book is a treasure-trove of hints and techniques. Each recipe starts with “Why This Recipe Works,” which explains the result of extensive research in the test kitchen. It’s easier to be inventive when you understand the basics of preparation.
“An Everlasting Meal” is filled with poetry and literature. I feel that I’m not reading a cookbook, but a fabulous lifestyle idea. Readers are encouraged to think of food preparation and consumption as a celebration. Ms. Adler playfully urges us not to take cooking too seriously when she names chapters “How to Boil Water” or “How to Snatch Victory from the Jaws of Defeat.” Whenever I reread her book, I feel confident that I can cook more intuitively and successfully.
For the past 25-plus years, I have lived a primarily vegetarian life. Some meat and fish are allowed into our diets, but we prefer vegetables. My favorite cookbooks are vegetarian. My earliest attempts at cooking were aided by Mollie Katzen and her charmingly illustrated books, “The Enchanted Broccoli Forest” and “Moosewood Cookbook.”
These days I like to consult “The Complete Vegetarian Cookbook” by America’s Test Kitchen. This book is a treasure-trove of hints and techniques. Each recipe starts with “Why This Recipe Works,” which explains the result of extensive research in the test kitchen. It’s easier to be inventive when you understand the basics of preparation.
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The most beautiful book in my food library is “Plenty” by Yotam Ottolenghi, chef and owner of London’s Ottolenghi restaurants. Last summer, I had the pleasure of eating at Ottolenghi in the Islington area of London. “Plenty” has delectable photographs and puts exotic dishes within the capability of average cooks.
A small book titled “Mezze” is another favorite of mine. Mezze dishes originate in North Africa, the eastern Mediterranean, and the Middle East. Comparable to Spanish tapas or Italian antipasti, mezze are small dishes served as appetizers or grouped together to form a meal for sharing. The recipes for hummus and eggplant dip are easy and delicious. There’s a carrot salad that looks sweet, but is quite savory thanks to cumin and turmeric. I love the oven roasted chile shrimp with its spicy juices for sopping with bread.
Today food blogs are very popular and number in the thousands. It’s not easy to separate the best from the mediocre, but here are a few that I enjoy:
My Paris Kitchen (davidlebovitz.com)
Cookie + Kate (cookieandkate.com)
101 Cookbooks (101cookbooks.com)
Sprouted Kitchen (sproutedkitchen.com)
The First Mess (thefirstmess.com)
A small book titled “Mezze” is another favorite of mine. Mezze dishes originate in North Africa, the eastern Mediterranean, and the Middle East. Comparable to Spanish tapas or Italian antipasti, mezze are small dishes served as appetizers or grouped together to form a meal for sharing. The recipes for hummus and eggplant dip are easy and delicious. There’s a carrot salad that looks sweet, but is quite savory thanks to cumin and turmeric. I love the oven roasted chile shrimp with its spicy juices for sopping with bread.
Today food blogs are very popular and number in the thousands. It’s not easy to separate the best from the mediocre, but here are a few that I enjoy:
My Paris Kitchen (davidlebovitz.com)
Cookie + Kate (cookieandkate.com)
101 Cookbooks (101cookbooks.com)
Sprouted Kitchen (sproutedkitchen.com)
The First Mess (thefirstmess.com)
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Blogs and recipe apps are convenient because you can access them while standing in the grocery wondering what to cook for supper. I find them useful, but there is nothing like a cookbook for inspiration.
I believe that preparing and consuming good, fresh food enhances our lives. Meals shared with friends and family offer great satisfaction and pleasure. All of our senses are engaged and our overall well-being is improved. I read cookbooks to become a more confident cook, not one ruled by recipes. I want to enjoy the preparation and sharing of meals with the people I love.
Our two local bookstores, Pass Christian Books (sponsor of this column!) and Bay Books, have a good selection of cookbooks for consideration. The Bay St. Louis Library and other branches of the Hancock County Library System have shelves filled with books about food.
Get out the knives, and shake those pots and pans.
I believe that preparing and consuming good, fresh food enhances our lives. Meals shared with friends and family offer great satisfaction and pleasure. All of our senses are engaged and our overall well-being is improved. I read cookbooks to become a more confident cook, not one ruled by recipes. I want to enjoy the preparation and sharing of meals with the people I love.
Our two local bookstores, Pass Christian Books (sponsor of this column!) and Bay Books, have a good selection of cookbooks for consideration. The Bay St. Louis Library and other branches of the Hancock County Library System have shelves filled with books about food.
Get out the knives, and shake those pots and pans.
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