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Radish: A Taste of the Season

11/28/2024

 
Coast Cuisine - November 2024
Using the freshest of locally sourced ingredients, Radish in Long Beach is redefining the upscale Southern dining experience.

- by Lisa Monti
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 The busy Sunday brunch service at Radish in downtown Long Beach was winding down when I settled in at a small table in the cozy dining room. A couple was finishing their meal on the front deck, and inside, the wait staff were tidying up.
 
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On the wall above my table was a large painted radish with textured red brushstrokes, a nod to the restaurant’s namesake and Long Beach’s early 20th century reign as the Radish Capital of the World. That connection with local produce is the centerpiece of chef/owner William Rester’s menu.
 
Rester opened Radish in 2022 with the promise of creating an ingredient-driven menu showcasing Southern tastes in the food and craft cocktails and incorporating local, fresh products. Chef Brennan Edmonds works alongside Rester in the kitchen, adding his own take to the food.
 
“We grow a number of herbs, peppers, and vegetables at the restaurant, which gives us a lock on fresh, as they're literally right outside the door,” Chef Rester said. “Long Beach got its history from the radish, so we give our signature dish a little extra love by accenting it with radishes we grew ourselves.” The signature dish is a starter of roasted radishes served with a luscious whipped goat cheese.
 
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Rester said he tries to use Mississippi and Southern regional ingredients whenever possible, mainly because there are so many great purveyors and producers here in the state. “We’re big fans of Delta Grind Grits from Water Valley and Grit Girl Grits from Oxford. Down Home Mushrooms and Slowpoke Farms Mushrooms from Hattiesburg. Cathead and Crittenden Distilleries make great vodkas and bourbons,” he said.
 
If it’s seafood, Rester promises it’s coming from the Gulf. Poche’s Andouille from Breaux Bridge is another of the chef’s favorites.
 
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The brunch menu at Radish is small but packed with popular selections. Salad options include the classic Caesar, but also a fall pear salad with seasonal vinaigrette made with toasted pumpkin seeds.
 
Entrees include Eggs Benedict, topped with sliced pork belly that melts in your mouth. The Radish version of shrimp and grits is Gulf shrimp with Jambalaya grits jazzed up with a Creole cream sauce and andouille.
 
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Photo by Colby DiMento
 
After a night on the town, the Hangover Hash featuring crispy potatoes, hot honey and that Southern favorite, Comeback sauce, might be the perfect options for you. If savory and sweet is more your speed, the chicken and waffles offer a crispy option, which you can order spicy or mild.
 
I started my Sunday brunch with the soup of the day, a creamy corn and shrimp. The popular shrimp and grits had sold out, so I went with the Brunch Burger because I am a burger super fan, and this one turned out to be one of my new favorites. The six-ounce Wagyu beef patty was served on a soft, sweet-ish sesame bun topped with comeback sauce with a bit of heat, thick bacon jam and cheddar alongside salty, hand-cut fries. (You can also add an over-easy egg to your burger.)
 
Radish makes their biscuits from scratch, like everything else that comes out of the kitchen, and they are served with all egg dishes and spicy hand-breaded chicken breast.
 
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Brunch a la carte items include Delta Grind Jambalaya Grits, two eggs, bacon, home fries and biscuits and jam. Naturally, Mimosas and Bloody Marys are available, too.
 
Radish will feature its current Satsuma-based menu until New Year’s. These seasonal options showcase local citrus in creative cocktails and food.
 
The Satsuma Mule blends Cathead Bitter Orange and ginger beer. The Satumosa is a combination of Satsuma juice and Prosecco. No Need to Argue has Grey Goose with satsuma, cranberry and club soda.
 
For an appetizer, try grilled Feta with satsuma vinaigrette, pecans and golden beets. A standout entree is the Chinese Five Spiced duck breast with satsuma marmalade and basil oil over radicchio.
 
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The Satsuma Creme Brûlée with candied satsuma peel is Radish’s seasonal version of the classic rich dessert, right down to the caramelized sugar layer on top. If you’re loving this season’s satsuma crop, these specials alone are worth the short drive to Long Beach.
 
Look for Radish to keep turning out new items to keep things interesting. “More farms are coming online to our produce distributor, and we're looking forward to exploring more options as they do,” Rester said. “Our tagline is that we're redefining what it means to meet and eat in the South. That starts with using great ingredients, and if you're going to feed someone, where you’re essentially giving them life, they deserve the best, right?”
 
Radish
200 Jeff Davis Avenue, Long Beach
(228) 328-8144
 Service lunch Tues-Fri 11 am-2 pm
Dinner Tues-Sat 4-9 pm
Brunch Sat-Sun 11 am-2 pm

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