“Our first teachers are our feet, our hands, and our eyes. To substitute books for all these is but to teach us to use the reason of others." Jean-Jacques Rousseau
- Story by James Inabinet, PhD
Somehow, though, we are comfortable with these conflicting views. Trouble begins, I think, when we privilege what we think and know from books or screens at the expense of experience. Ordinary third-graders are now expected to learn about trees by reading about them or by gazing at photographs in a book or computer. Effectively removed from actual trees, these students come to know them devoid of sensual experience, without ever looking closely, without feeling the difference in texture between magnolia and beautyberry leaves, without smelling the difference between crushed bayberry and red bay leaves, without smelling the root beer scent of sassafras roots. Inside sterile rooms these students sit with their books, bored to death, engaged not in their own reason, but in Rousseau’s “reason of others.” In many ways the whole of modern culture has given over experience in favor of thinking. We have learned more from books about how trees grow and make leaves and feed squirrels and birds and bugs than we know about the tree in our front yard – if we even have one anymore [it might fall on my house in a storm].
Oh, but the living green world that I see outside my forest home is more vivid than any words can convey. I wonder how much we have given up sitting in classrooms, looking at books, staring at screens? Nature beckons me; it calls me home, to the direct experience of moving suns. The natural world is directly experienced with a body first – feet, hands and eyes – the initial basis for any knowledge. I am sitting here at the edge of the forest looking at a red bay, its lance-shaped leaves deformed by galls; crossing branches hold a squirrel nest; a bevy of pines loom behind it. No book can tell me this, no screen can convey the whole of it; the smell of the leaves – try to describe that. In these ways and myriad others, a body first comes to know a tree tacitly. Tacit means silent, without recourse to words or why or how. Tacit knowing is like typing. If we think, we can no longer do it. We experience the world first with our bodies: feet, hands, and eyes. The very act of living in a body necessitates experience — that’s what it’s there for! In this way, my body is more a means for communion with the world than a boundary that separates.
So, what does the world of hands, feet, and eyes actually tell me? From far above I might experience the earth as kind of flat. Were I to gaze down like a soaring eagle, I might see brown and green earth, blue Gulf. I might see a bay-side city-scape dotted with houses, painted-on like a pointillist might put onto canvas. This flat circle earth is a mandala world of rich color-in-motion. The winds of the four directions nourish me as I soar at its center. The morning sun on this stationary earth rises everyday without fail, arcs steadily overhead, and finally sets late in the afternoon. This moving sun is our experience, based on the inner workings of a life-world that’s actually lived. The very concept of motion, of rest, of time, of space, is derived from Earth, is relative to Earth. I can watch the dome of the sky on any night turn around Polaris until the light of the sun obliterates the view. I can feel its movement as Orion descends below the horizon and Cassiopeia moves upward into view. Experience is the birthplace of meaning. A nameless aborigine said: “Whatever one sees is a reflection of oneself.” What kind of reflection does a disembodied mind see? What meaning is derived? Is that what we want… or does it leave us hungry? He continues, “this is not taught in schools; this is what the cuckoo taught me on the cliffs of Cornwall.”
Waveland Alderman Jeremy Burke reports on a special program at the Waveland Library; and a special art exhibition and party at Studio Waveland & Gallery.
- Photos by Ellis Anderson
This program is sponsored by the NAACP, as an adjunct to its Reading Buddies tutoring program during the school year in the Bay St. Louis and Waveland elementary schools. No fee or advance sign-up is required.
2nd Annual Summer Solstice Party
Celebrate the summer solstice and the opening of the 25 WOMEN Art Exhibition with Studio Waveland & Gallery on Saturday, June 22 from 5-10 pm. The event will feature the opening of the 25 Women Art Exhibition, ART FILMS by Women FilmMakers, and music. Studio Waveland invites you to "Bring Your Own Dinner Party” to set up under the sunset and evening stars. Yes, that’s right. Gather your neighbors, family and/or friends and bring the party to us. Bring tables, chairs, colorful tablecloths, food, drinks and any other party enhancements and set up on the street. For more information please visit The Shoofly Magazine's Upcoming Events page!
Event Date: Saturday, June 22, 5-10 pm
25 Women Art Exhibition Dates: June 22 - August 17 Location: Studio Waveland & Gallery 228 Coleman Ave., Waveland, MS 39576 504-914-9618 Free to the Public
The Arts, Hancock County produces a visionary full moon art gathering in a natural setting on Bayou La Terre.
- Story by Steve Barney, photos courtesy of TAHC
Madden said, “The most important thing Milton conveyed to me was to not over-plan, and to let the artists have complete freedom to express in any way.”
For The Arts, Hancock County, producing an event like this was uncharted territory. None of the art would be for sale; it is a temporary experience of art in nature. How many artists would want to participate? Would anyone drive 30-plus minutes to the wilderness to experience it? It turns out that 27 artists and over 250 visitors wanted to take part. Led by Ann Madden, Kristie Buddenbaum and Bernie Cullen, the planning committee’s first task was to find the right venue – one that would allow visitors to experience nature while simultaneously allowing for the logistics of handling a large event. On their first visit to La Terre Bioregional Center and Art Studios last fall, the “dream team” knew immediately they had found the perfect place. Property owners James and Peggy Inabinet were excited about the opportunity to share where they live, work and provide a multitude of programs to the community. This magical space was the perfect setting for this event. Located on Bayou La Terre about 15 miles north of the coast, La Terre is an amazing collection of handcrafted structures, walking paths, creek bluffs, permaculture gardens, art studios, ceremonial lodges and so much more. James and Peggy are multi-talented artists, craftsmen, healers, farmers and educators. The Inabinets extend art to life’s journey itself – again, the invisible made visible. Emerson called this journey the “life of a poet.” Kandinsky called it a “life of art.” Editor's note: James Inabinet also writes the "Nature Notes" column for the Shoofly Magazine. These "unexpected explorations" take readers to a place where philosophy meets nature. Click here for his current column and scroll down for archived columns. James specializes in weaving and dyeing shawls, rugs, and belts of natural fibers. Some dyes are grown in the garden [indigo] while others are wild-crafted [walnut husks, Osage orange]. La Terre co-proprietor Peggy is also an amazing multimedia artist. Peggy says, “I love the forest in which I live. The flowers and leaves are so stunning that I just have to watercolor them. The creatures I see tucked inside a flower or nibbling on a leaf intrigue me. But when I create in clay it's expressing my beliefs that seem to come forth from within. Hence, I create nativities, angels, Sacred Hearts, and petrogylph plaques using terra cotta clays.”
For James and Peggy, this life as art includes an inquiry into how it might be accomplished within a culture that makes it difficult [if not nigh impossible].
It also includes the bootstrapping of techniques that enable the art of becoming fully human, that enable the art of human flourishing within a flourishing ecosystem and enables the art of acting in the service of Gaia, in communion with the life-producing biosphere as an integral and functional component. The Inabinets were enthusiastic to host a large event which incorporate the utopian principles of the Burningman global movement: Inclusion, Gifting, Immediacy, Leave No Trace, Self-Reliance, Self Expression, Civic Responsibility and Communal Effort. On Saturday, May 18, on an amazing moonlit night, it all happened… and for the 250 people who participated, it was a magical evening beyond anyone’s expectations. 27 artists, all members of The Arts, Hancock County participated, coming from New Orleans and across the Gulf Coast. Local Jazzabilly favorites, Heather and The Monkey King, performed in the carport, which became a central gathering spot featuring tasty food by Savage Skillet. Later in the evening visitors experienced the hypnotic performance of Hancock Arts regulars Pandorium Belly Dance Troupe and Priestess Sisters Fire Dance.
Participating artists included:
Ann Madden produced an installation using gel transfers of family photos as well as heirlooms and lights. Cynthia Mahner and Karen West created Moonlight at the Oasis filled with sculpture, cushions, treats and magic elixers. Danielle Inabinet fabricated a collection of delicate porcelain forms arranged within the sanctuary of the forest. Deb Schwedhelm produced a video projection and printing of photographs onto a large piece of white fabrics delicately hung in the branches of trees. Dharma Gilley displayed abstracted paintings and wrote poems for visitors on her typewriter. Elisa Desilva made a collection of faeries under the garden arbor. Gregory Matusoff created a surreal cityscape intertwined with nature. Holly Garvin created an underwater fantasy of jellyfishes and Gyptaku fish rubbing. Hunter Cole created a nature-themed installation of Petri dishes with bioluminescent bacteria. Jaqueline Mongoose and Eve Eisenman created Enchanted Night: A Wish Upon a Cloud, filled with wish faeires, whimsical paintings and sculptures. James Inabinet created Mother Earth, a partially buried torso birthing spring flower lights. Jane Clair Tyner made mobile sculptural pieces made of found bones, prayer sticks and flags. Joby Bass and Jessica Dark fabricated a driftwood tree with ceramic flowers. Kerr Grabowski and Micky Arnold created enlarged creatures of the night! Lisa Keel and Donna Martin made lighted shrine Art of dazzling glass, fabric and tree branches. Night blooming Flowers - fairies and Moons.
Lucinda D’enfant Live painting amidst display of masks.
Margaret Inabinet An installation of King Cake babies in the context of nature. Mark James did a spontaneous groundhog impersonation in midst of an extraterrestrial research area. Monica Kelly Studio displayed a series of paintings about the divine feminine and the healing properties of flowers. Additionally, Monica’s team bodypainted designs inspired by the Flower Moon.
Nathan Rodriguez built a collection of masks and sculptures and light boxes made from leather, glass, wood, and paper.
Samantha Shannon made a 12 inch high porcelain cast statue internally lit. Steve Barney created a water sculpture made from broken pottery. Look for more collaborative events between The Arts, Hancock County and LaTerre Bioregional Center and Art Studios in the future. For more info check out our websites: hancockarts.org and laterreintegralcenter.org.
Click here to join The Arts, Hancock County!
During the Second Saturday Artwalk each month in Old Town Bay St. Louis, you'll find cool deals, fresh meals and lots of art and live music!
Be sure to check out "Hot Spots" The Porch (112 South 2nd Street) and Pop Brothers (111 Main Street). Read more about these featured businesses below! - stories by Caroline St. Paul, photos by Caroline St. Paul and Ellis Anderson
The Porch
Shops at Century Hall 112 South 2nd Street Bay St. Louis 504.858.8574 Website The Porch is an eclectic “farmhouse/industrial/beach” shop located in Century Hall on Second Street. JoAnn Saucier opened The Porch in Bay St. Louis on June 1, 2017. She previously owned The Porch in New Orleans for twelve years. After selling their house in New Orleans, they “were trying to decide what to do next.” After visiting friends in Bay St. Louis on several occasions, JoAnn said, “we just fell in love.” They saw a house under construction and decided to buy it. They moved here three years ago, and the rest is history. JoAnn began with a small space in The French Potager. Soon, Century Hall sold and there was space available. She “rented it on the spot, and that was the beginning.” “The people here have been so welcoming,” JoAnn says, citing the community as “kind, and giving.” As for her favorite part about being in Bay St. Louis, she says she enjoys the fact that “there’s just always something going on for such a small place… it's almost overwhelming sometimes!” Her merchandise at The Porch is “a little bit further out there.” Nevertheless, this unique shop is where you can find something to decorate your home for every occasion, gifts, and other lovely things.
Her goals for the future of The Porch include continuing “to try to find new lines and new things… newer and better options” as well as “continuing to build the business and help people find us.” The Porch has a bright future indeed. For June 8 Second Saturday, enjoy refreshments and a sale at The Porch! Music will be sponsored by Hancock Whitney Bank, The First, and The People’s Bank. Enjoy The Porch as a hot spot for the entire month of June.
Pop Brothers
111 Main St. Bay St. Louis 228.304.0024 Website The summer months are approaching, which means the warm temperatures will be here before we know it. Cool off with gourmet popsicles at Pop Brothers located on Main Street. Shannon Arzola, her husband, Octavio, and brother, Chuck Kelly, own Pop Brothers, which has locations in Gulfport, Ocean Springs, and most recently, Bay St. Louis. “We’re in downtowns in every city - that’s where we feel the most comfortable,” she said. Pop Brothers “evolved from a big desire to be back on the Coast,” Shannon explained. After having been gone for ten years due to her husband’s job, she was “ready to come home.” Shannon asked her husband if they could quit their jobs and open up a popsicle store, which is something that they had previously talked about.
Shannon’s reasoning for coming home to open the store had to do with her reliable resources here, including a strong connection of friends and family, to be there for them if the business failed. She asked her brother to be in on Pop Brothers, and they quit their jobs the next day. The Arzolas were determined to make it work, and that is just what they did. Now, looking back, Shannon reflects on the decision to open Pop Brothers saying, “I don’t think it could have worked any better than it worked… we really love what we do and we really love our stores, our employees, our customers.” Along with three retail stores, they also “sell at a majority of the casinos, Shucker Stadium, the airport, Memorial Hospital, Hattiesburg Zoo, Convention Center, Saenger, Lazy Magnolia, Murky Waters in Hattiesburg” and gas stations. They also have ten event carts which they use for festivals, catering, weddings, and school and corporate events. Delivery on dry ice is also available for offices. This month, expect to see their website open with information about shipping. Her husband, with a background of 20 years in the restaurant industry, is the brains behind all of the unique popsicle flavors. Some of their best-sellers include Oreo Cheesecake, Berries and Cream, and Barq’s Rootbeer Float. The Bay St. Louis location, which has been open for about a year and a half, is “where we tried our out-of-the-box flavors in the beginning,” Shannon said. “I knew that the people in Bay St. Louis were far more open in the beginning to try those flavors.” They first tested their signature out-of-the-box flavor, Strawberry Basil and 25-Year-Old Balsamic Glaze, at Second Saturday before they had their storefront, “and it took off.” There are also mainstream flavors available year round, as well as seasonal flavors, such as pumpkin pie and white chocolate peppermint bark. Shannon’s goal for the business in the future is to “stay interesting enough to get people to come in the door.” They plan to do this by changing the menu up every so often so that there is always something new for people to try. “People are happy all the time…,it’s a popsicle - it’s a happy thing on a stick!” You will not be disappointed in the popsicles you can get at Pop Brothers! For June 8 Second Saturday, enjoy a gourmet pop from Pop Brothers, and music sponsored by Hancock Whitney Bank, The First, and The People’s Bank. Visit the shop as a hot spot for the entire month of June.
It was a tough job, but someone had to do it - sample beer at all of our area's craft breweries.
- Story and photos by Dena Temple (unless otherwise noted)
I had an idea. In New Jersey where I used to live, people were absolutely obsessed with the craft brewing scene. Twenty-something hipsters in flannel swapped growlers (glass jugs) from remote breweries the way children swapped baseball cards in years past. I wondered: How does the craft beer scene here on the Mississippi Gulf Coast compare? Here in Mississippi the craft brewing craze is just starting to catch on, but our Gulf Coast breweries are attracting the attention of beer lovers nationwide, who incorporate brewery visits in their travel plans. Several local restaurants even create menu pairings with our local brews – in fact, the Savage Skillet just announced a beer dinner on June 7 featuring pairings with beers from around the region, including Alabama, Louisiana and Mississippi.
The challenge started with some research. There are six craft breweries within Mississippi’s coastal counties. One of them does not brew their own beer and doesn’t have a tasting room or retail facility. We covered the other five active breweries with tasting rooms or brewpubs:
I programmed my GPS and hit the highway. Let the tastings begin!
Lazy Magnolia Brewery, Kiln
Inconspicuously located in the complex surrounding the Stennis International Airport just off Highway 43/603 lies the Lazy Magnolia Brewery. The brewery opened in 2005 and is the oldest packaging brewery in the state. Their tasting room, known as The Porch, is divided into two sections. The main area is smartly fitted with rustic wood tables and chairs set up for small and large groups, with a stage at one end for live entertainment on Friday nights and during special events. Barrels line one wall, a hint to aging techniques used for some of their small-batch beers.
A smaller room houses the service counter, where you can order a pint or a “flight” - four small samples of beer. Also available is a modest menu of finger foods, featuring pub favorites like Bavarian-style pretzels, seafood dip, flatbread pizzas, and other light fare. All bread is from Serious Bread in Bay St. Louis, which hints at the quality of the offerings here. A winding stairway leads to a second-floor loft, where visitors can play pool, toss a little cornhole, or just watch the goings-on below. This is a great place for a date night, to people-watch, or to make new friends over a friendly cornhole match. The main event at Lazy Magnolia is held on the first Friday of each month. Huge crowds turn out for the live music and great conversation, and they leave with a “First Friday” souvenir glass.
I met Anna Giles, manager, who greeted me with a big smile. She led me to the service counter, where she suggested I try a flight of their beers. I chose two beers that I’d had before, Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale (their flagship brew) and Timber Beast (a rye double IPA). Since I favor IPAs, Anna suggested that I try their new High Pitch Cavitation, a hazy New England-style IPA, and finally the Grapefruit Radler, a light shandy. Lazy Magnolia’s beers are all very drinkable, and most aren’t too strong, which I appreciate when taste-testing more than one. The High Pitch Cavitation is notably less bitter than most IPAs and is very drinkable. The Grapefruit Radler, a shandy, is as light as lemonade, slightly sweet, and would be great very cold on the beach. Anna disappeared briefly. I approached the counter with a question about growlers, and a very pleasant worker greeted me with a smile. He's Mark Henderson, founder and “Head Peon,” as he likes to say. When he learned that I’m working on a Gulf Coast brewery article, he knew he’d found an audience. Doors flew open, and we began a private, backstage tour of the brewery!
Mark and his wife Leslie founded Lazy Magnolia in 2005. They currently employ 20+ workers, plus another 20 or so distributors who keep their product on supermarket shelves and in local taprooms. Lazy Magnolia is the only local brewery that has their own bottling equipment on-site, and it’s fun to watch the conveyor fill, seal and label hundreds of bottles per hour. But while this part of the process is automated, it’s clear in the aging room that the Hendersons take seriously the “craft” in craft beer.
Barrels line the walls containing finely crafted small-batch beers. There’s the Belgian trippel aging in Chardonnay barrels; “Southern Gentleman,” which is the brewery’s Southern Pecan beer aged in bourbon barrels; and a sour beer aging in maple syrup barrels. Mark knows that they owe their success to the community, so it is important to him that Lazy Magnolia give back as well. “We’re proud of our work with the community,” Mark began. “This year our charity partner is Extra Table, an organization that delivers food to shelters and food pantries around the state. We hope to be able to donate $10,000 by the end of the year to further their great work.” By the end of my visit, I’d certainly gotten more than I bargained for – and I vowed to return, because while it was a fantastic visit, a trip to Lazy Magnolia is best served with friends.
Chandeleur Island Brewing, Gulfport
A quick zig-and-zag off Highway 90 in Gulfport lands you at Chandeleur Island Brewing, a large, attractive building in a semi-industrial area. Weathered double doors and contemporary music outside welcome visitors into the taproom, with rustic-looking floors, a large aquarium on one end, barrels for aging, and an enormous bar down the length of one wall. With large windows overlooking the brewing area it is meant to look industrial, but it is clearly designed for social interaction: The music’s not too loud, and the bistro tables are small and conducive to good conversation.
There is a definite nautical theme not only in the taproom, with its spar-varnished bar and the fish fighting chair (for cool souvenir photos), but also in the gorgeous artwork that adorns the cans holding their flagship brews. Chandeleur Island beers are served at many area bars and restaurants and are also available in most grocery stores in our area. The brewery was founded in 2013 by brothers Cammack and Cain Roberds. Their love of beer began as homebrewers, and they dreamed of one day opening their own microbrewery. Changes in Mississippi laws in 2012 allowed the brothers to move forward with their dream, and in 2013 they purchased a historic building in downtown Gulfport and created Chandeleur Island Brewing Company. They named the brewery after one of their favorite barrier islands off the Mississippi coast. I met with David Reese, partner and brewmaster for Chandeleur Island Brewing, at the brewery last week. David is an Advanced Cicerone, one of about 100 people in the U.S. with this designation. A cicerone is to beer what a sommelier is to wine, and the “advanced” designation means he has an encyclopedic knowledge of brewing, tasting and serving beer.
David said that fully 40% of their customers are tourists. “We find more and more people are making breweries part of their travel plans,” he said. There’s a lot for locals to love, too. The taproom features live music on Friday nights all year, and a local sub shop provides sandwiches on weekends. Other times snacks are available. Special events including “doggy speed dating” (adoption days) and Chandy Fest on June 8 featuring live music, food, a Kid Zone and specialty beers. But even if there is nothing special going on, Chandeleur Island Brewing is a very worthwhile stop on a date night, with friends, after work – or just because you crave a finely crafted beer, and you want to be part of their journey.
Biloxi Brewing, Biloxi
In a residential neighborhood just off Esters Boulevard nearly in the shadow of I-110 is a rather nondescript, sand-colored concrete building. The only clue that this was my destination was the logo that features the iconic Biloxi lighthouse. Welcome to the home of Biloxi Brewing Company and the Coastal Life Taproom. Founded in 2014, Biloxi Brewing produces the #1 selling craft beer in the six coastal counties of Mississippi, Biloxi Blonde. In addition to supermarkets, Biloxi Blonde is available at local restaurants, bars, and even in at MGM Park, home of the Biloxi Shuckers minor-league baseball team. The taproom is smaller than my first two destinations, but what Biloxi lacks in size, it makes up for in personality. The taproom feels like a neighborhood bar – TVs showing the game of the day, and lots of happy conversation from long tables next to the bar. My server this Saturday afternoon was Hunter Murray, the nephew of one of the brewery’s owners, and he was enthusiastic and personable. There were a total of 8 beers to choose from, including a special, Captain Black, their “Black Gold” stout aged in Captain Morgan barrels. Hunter recommended five beers for my flight, so I sampled Biloxi Blonde, their flagship Kölsch; it’s light and refreshing with a slight effervescence. I also tried a light Pale Ale; Salty Dog, a sour beer with blood orange; Black Gold, a stout that smells like chocolate and coffee; and Libre de Mojito, a sour Kölsch with lime and mint.
I spied a popcorn machine near a group of guys watching an afternoon game and enjoying a pint of their favorite Biloxi beer. While the popcorn was a great complement to the beer, I inquired about other food options. Hunter explained that True Wings, a local food truck, provides food at the taproom on Tuesday and Saturdays. He also mentioned that the brewery has extended hours in the summer months.
After my flight Hunter took me on a quick “behind the scenes” tour, obviously very proud of his family’s accomplishments and happy to be working there. With staff as pleasant as Hunter, good, drinkable beers and a comfortable atmosphere, I’d say Biloxi Brewing has a bright future, indeed.
Hops & Growlers, Ocean Springs
Crossing the Highway 90 bridge into Jackson County took me into Ocean Springs, the location for my last two stops. John, my husband and fellow beer lover, joined me for this final leg of the adventure. Our first stop was at Hops & Growlers. Located on the tracks on busy Government Street, the exterior of the Hops & Growlers building is a little nondescript. Okay, it’s a white concrete cube with dark-tinted windows. But cross that threshold, and a world of great beer awaits.
Scott Hixson’s brewery is alive with boisterous people when I arrive. The wisecracks flew between Scott and his customers as he drew flights and snifters from one of the 20 taps. His beers, which feature conventional IPAs and lagers as well as creative sours (Dewberry is one of the more unusual flavors), draws fans from all over, who rave over his beer and his good nature. The atmosphere is homey and dares visitors to linger, or better yet, become regulars themselves. Scott started Hops & Growlers almost five years ago but has been at the Government Street location for about two years. He’s got lots of regulars, he says, and a lot of tourist traffic as well. Brew tourists have heard what he’s doing, and they want to taste what’s going on here. Food is available sporadically from local food trucks, and South Coast Seafood next door will pack you a meal to enjoy at H&G. Recent special events have included “Barks and Brews” (sort of a “bring your doggie to the brewery” day) and “Science on Tap,” when local naturalists lecture on such diverse subjects as sharks, fish conservation and rising ocean levels. This is one of the most creative and enriching programs I’ve heard of at a brewery, anywhere. Hops & Growlers also sells home brewing supplies, for those who want to try their hand at the craft.
John and I shared a flight here, and we tried four different beers: a blood orange IPA that’s tart and flavorful; OS Haze Boi, a hazy New England IPA; a salted caramel stout; and “Wise Man Says,” a cognac-aged Weizenbock. All four brews were delicious, complex and worthy of additional sampling, but we had one more stop before we were through, so we bade farewell to Scott and his rowdy customers and vowed to return – soon.
Crooked Letter Brewing, Ocean Springs
The last stop on my beer adventure was Crooked Letter Brewing. Also located in Ocean Springs, Crooked Letter is housed in a 120-year-old house and former restaurant. The exterior is rustic wood with a sprawling deck and cozy fireplace outside. Upon our arrival a sign on the door announced, “Class in Session – Use Other Door.” Class? “A dance class,” explained owner and brewmaster Paul Blacksmith as he greeted us. “We have special events here all the time.” There’s a lot that’s unconventional about Crooked Letter. They do brew beer – and quite good beer, too – but they also serve cocktails and wine, and they serve food, so you could say they are a brewery inside a restaurant/bar. Or a restaurant and bar inside a brewery. Whatever you call it, Crooked Letter is striking the right note here in the O.S.
The bar area was dimly lit and felt like a neighborhood hangout – bottles, photos, souvenirs and other tchotchkes made the bar feel homey. While there were plenty of regulars that evening, Paul said that tourists account for nearly 50% of his clientele. When asked who his customer is likely to be, Paul replied, “Beer lovers come in all shapes and sizes, all ages, all races, and both sexes. We’ve really gone mainstream.” Paul takes pride in the brewery’s growler-filling capabilities and said that they are the only brewery with a growler de-oxygenation system, which removes oxygen from the jug before filling. This keeps the beer fresher, much longer. Like other breweries in our tour, Paul also likes crafting innovative sours, so we sampled several varieties – but the highlight of our beer tasting was their Tension Break Edge, a “milkshake IPA” just released on the day of our visit. This beer was developed by apprentice brewer Casey Mclain, who’s been brewing for just 13 months. The beer is balanced, smooth and not bitter, very drinkable and worth the premium price. Paul calls Casey “amazing.” “I taught him the mechanics of brewing, but he’s just got a real natural ability to build flavors, a real intuition for it,” claimed Paul. “I’m so proud of what he created here.” Crooked Letter (named for the children’s song that spells out Mississippi: “M,I, crooked letter crooked letter…”) features live music several nights per week and other entertainment such as fire dancers and fusion dance on weekends. Wednesday is live Celtic music. They offer a limited menu on Thursday and a full menu Friday through Sunday. But even with all the goings-on, the best reason to check out Crooked Letter Brewing is still the beer – and the people who are brewing it. Gulf Coast Breweries at a Glance
Lazy Magnolia Brewing 7030 Roscoe-Turner Rd., Kiln (228) 467-2727 www.lazymagnolia.com Mon-Wed 10am – 6pm Thurs-Sat 10am – 8pm Closed Sunday Chandeleur Island Brewing Company 2711 14th St., Gulfport (228) 701-9985 www.chandeleurbrew.com Mon-Thurs 4 - 10 pm Fri 3pm - midnight Sat 11 am - midnight Sun 11am – 7pm Biloxi Brewing 186 Bohn St., Biloxi (228) 273-1638 www.biloxibrewing.com Tues-Fri 3-8pm Sat noon-6pm Hops and Growlers 2339 Government St., Ocean Springs (228) 334-5585 https://www.facebook.com/pg/hopsandgrowlers Tues-Thurs 2-9pm Fri-Sat noon-10pm Sun noon-5pm Crooked Letter Brewing 503 Porter Ave., Ocean Springs (662) 447-4852 www.crookedletterbrewery.com Sun-Thurs noon-10pm Fri-Sat noon-midnight
Colorful butterflies, tasty herbs and serenity - all thrive at this city sanctuary, where volunteers raise vegetables and community spirit.
- Story by Denise Jacobs, photos by Ellis Anderson
If you’ve never gardened before and are wondering what all the fuss is about, check out Ruth’s Roots, 130 Court Street, Bay St. Louis, an art space with a magical collection of butterflies, bees, bunnies, wheel barrows, sculptures, chickens, a fish pond with running water, a food pantry, and rows and rows of raised flower and vegetable beds.
The garden is 100 percent funded by private donors/grants. No municipalities support the garden, and it flourishes under the green thumbs of volunteer staff. Elise Epperson Deano is the founder.
On the one hand, Ruth’s Garden has the feel of a restorative sanctuary—on the other hand, the whimsical backyard garden you might build yourself if you only had a large enough yard. Deano laughingly calls it a “no judgment zone.” Observant visitors will find both a statue of Buddha and a shrine of Mary. On any given day, someone might be practicing or teaching yoga or tai chi on site. All are encouraged to take what they need — from a slip or more of rosemary to a can of butter beans from the food pantry. At Ruth’s Roots, community sprouts up alongside the zinnias. From its beginning, the garden has provided an opportunity for residents of all ages to come together and work toward a common goal — from its earliest roots as a resource for the Hancock County Drug Court to its current metamorphosis as a farm-to-table community garden — and help people do. After one of the recent big storms — there have been so many — Deano received a phone call notifying her that a big tree had fallen on the chicken tractor — a chicken coop on wheels. She was out of town, but when volunteers arrived on site, they found the chicken coop buried beneath the fallen tree. The chickens were nowhere in sight. City workers soon appeared with chain saws alongside a host of volunteers with work gloves. Within hours, the fallen tree had been carted away, log by log. As luck would have it, the chickens had been roosting in a corner and thus survived. As of this writing, they are sharing lodging with the rabbits. Deano says this kind of community action makes her heart happy. It’s also the kind of thing that illustrates the community of Bay St. Louis: at its best, we are a place where neighbor helps neighbor, a lesson learned — an outgrowth, you might say, of rebuilding — re-seeding, if you will, a community in the aftermath of a devastating hurricane. There are many ways to support Ruth’s Roots. Some do so with garden gloves, others with financial contributions. Supporters can also donate items to the Rummage Sale to benefit Ruth’s Roots, which will be held on Saturday, June 8, from 9am to 3pm at the law offices of Elise Epperson Deano at 10199 Highway 603, Bay St. Louis. Donations will be received through Wednesday, June 5. Call Deano at 228 466-9597 to make arrangements. Ruth’s Roots is a 501c(3) under the Hancock Community Development Foundation, which has established a Go Fund Me account. If you would like to help rebuild the chicken coop or make possible a wooden fence, a graffiti wall, or any number of enhancements, your contributions are welcomed. Donations can also be made directly to the Foundation at 100 South Beach Blvd., Suite A, Bay St. Louis (39520) above the Hancock Whitney Bank Building.
A driving force behind some of the community's most dynamic organizations, Dina Rosetti has found her "giving place" in Bay St. Louis
- story by Denise Jacobs
There are many Fido-friendly establishments in Bay St. Louis - and we've compiled a comprehensive list for our furry friends.
- story by Denise Jacobs
While Mississippi coast is not known for its dog-friendly beaches, the beaches of Bay St. Louis and Waveland are an exception to the rule. Enjoy your romp in the water. Then, when surf time is over and Rover has shaken the salt from his coat, simply snap a leash on your canine companion and enjoy a walk along our sandy beaches, where dogs are welcome, day or night.
When you’ve exhausted the surf and sand, and your ice bucket is empty, head into town for some refreshment, and bring Fido along. At the Mockingbird Café, a favorite watering hole at 110 Second Street, guests can enjoy Coast Roast coffee specialties, extraordinary biscuits, the award-winning Mockingburger, or hearty pub fare — all on the shady outdoor wrap-around porch and patio. Dogs are also welcome in the outdoor stage area, home of the Atticus Finch Night Market, nestled between the Mockingbird Café and Smith & Lens. The back patio at the Parrot Head Bar & Grill (inside Bodega at 111 Court Street), where beloved chef Rickey Peters serves up Cajun favorites, is another favorite hangout you can share with your pooch. Pop Brothers (111 Main Street), the go-to place for gourmet popsicles, even makes pops for pups. The Buttercup on Second Street (112 North Second Street), the popular local breakfast/lunch eatery, welcomes dogs on the porch and patio, and your server is always happy to bring a bowl of fresh water for Fido. At 200 North Beach, patrons can enjoy food, drinks, and a beach view while dining with their dog on the deck. The motto of the historic Sycamore House Restaurant (210 Main Street) is “Come casual, we supply the elegance.” “Casual” includes your dog at this fine dining establishment if you sit on their oak-shaded patio in back, where you can order up gourmet pizza. Lulu’s on Main (126 Main Street) is a breakfast and lunch spot with a large screened-in side porch that welcomes dogs; The Ugly Pirate (144 DeMontluzin Avenue) and The Blind Tiger (119 North Beach) are also dog-friendly, with outdoor seating and, at The Blind Tiger, a lovely marina view. When in doubt about a shop’s openness to dogs, it is best to poke your head inside and ask if it’s alright to bring your dog inside. In my experience as a dog owner here in the Bay, most shops try to accommodate. In fact, while shopping for antiques, art, home decor, apparel, or gifts, beachcombers and landlubbers alike will most likely be pleasantly surprised by the welcome their four-legged friends receive. Gallery 220 (220 Main Street), keeps a full bowl of fresh water on hand for the pooches. If you’re lucky, Egypt, the shop dog at California Drawstrings (216 Main Street), may greet you at the door. In December, California Drawstrings offers photos with Santa and your dog as a benefit for the Hancock County Animal Shelter. Just across the street, The French Potager (213 Main Street) welcomes pups, while at Social Chair (201 Main Street), doggie treats are kept behind the counter and shared with canine customers. Magnolia Antiques (200 Main Street) is dog-friendly, with two local dogs and their owner dropping in each day to visit, making their daily Old Town rounds. Thirsty pups can always count on a bowl of fresh water at The Shops at Century Hall, 112 South Second Street. Janice Guido, shopkeeper at Bay Life Gifts, is one of several pet-loving proprietors within Century Hall with two shelter cats at home. JoAnn Saucier, The Porch, also at Century Hall, owns four shelter puppies. “We love our pets at Century Hall,” she says. Bay Town Inn (208 North Beach Blvd.) comes highly recommended as a dog-friendly place to stay. The realtors at H. L. Raymond Properties, 529 Ulman Avenue, let dogs weigh-in on the properties considered by prospective buyers (owner/broker Holly Lemoine Raymond is known for her work on behalf of the Hancock Animal Shelter). Bay Hide Away RV Park and Campground, 8360 Lakeshore Road, recently installed a fenced-in dog park for its campers. Not everyone appreciates the dog-friendly trend. With that in mind, I include this Chicago Tribune article for the rules it provides for shopping with Fido. Good behavior can be a dog-lover’s best defense. One of the best pieces of advice I ever found on the topic of dogs in traditionally human spaces — source long forgotten — is to always remind our pets to keep their voices down while talking on cell phones. Pet-friendly Establishments in Bay St. LouisDining / Restaurants 200 North Beach 200 North Beach Blvd. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 467-9388 www.200northbeach.com Blind Tiger, The 119 North Beach Blvd. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 216-2600 www.theblindtigerbsl.com Buttercup on Second Street, The 112 N. Second St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 466-4930 www.baystlouisoldtown.com/the-buttercup-on-second-street.html Mockingbird Café 110 Second St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 467-8383 www.mockingbirdcafe.com Lulu’s on Main 126 Main St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 463-1670 www.facebook.com/Lulus-on-Main-885393741503859 Parrot Head Bar & Grill 111 Court St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 363-1290 www.bodegabsl.com/pages/the-parrot-head-bar Pop Brothers 111 Main St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 304-0024 www.popbrothers.com Sycamore House Restaurant 210 Main St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 469-0107 www.thesycamorehouse.com Ugly Pirate, The 144 DeMontluzin Ave. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 467-2682 www.facebook.com/The-Ugly-Pirate-161356640621877 Lodging / Real Estate Bay Hide Away RV Park and Campground 8360 Lakeshore Rd. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 466-0959 www.bayhideaway.net Bay Town Inn 208 North Beach Blvd. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (504) 421-0960 www.baytowninn.com H. L. Raymond Properties 529 Ulman Ave. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 466-6643 www.hlraymondproperties.com Shopping / Retail California Drawstrings 216 Main St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 463-2124 www.californiadrawstrings.com French Potager, The 213 Main St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 364-3091 www.thefrenchpotager.com Gallery 220 220 Main St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 466-6347 www.baystlouisoldtown.com/gallery-220.html Magnolia Antiques 200 Main St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 467-8170 www.baystlouisoldtown.com/magnolia-antiques.html Shops at Century Hall, The 112 South Second St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (504) 810-7772 www.facebook.com/TheShopsofCenturyHall Social Chair 201 Main St. Bay St. Louis, MS 39520 (228) 466-5853 www.baystlouisoldtown.com/social-chair.html
An author acknowledges how a small town, its people and a storm freed her to create her first novel.
- story by Elizabeth Bartasius
Before I landed in Mississippi, I felt like debris whipped around in the emotional hurricanes of anxiety, “shoulds,” and expectations. When I moved to the Bay in 2003, my first marriage disintegrated; life was in chaos. Then Katrina (the literal hurricane) hit.
All seemed lost, yet all around me I discovered a different way to approach life. People cared for each other, despite differences. They laughed over meals served by volunteers in tents. The Coast’s collective rallying cry — we will rebuild; and it will be bigger and better! — bolstered me. I learned that if I wanted something done, I was the one to step up and do it. Close-knit Bay Saint Louis offered each person the space and opportunity to share their unique gifts, to be heard, and, then to rise. In the Bay, I found an underlying current of support and a celebration of my own voice. I also stopped being in such a hurry. The beat of small-town life became my metronome. I paced myself accordingly with morning strolls to the ‘Bird for a take-out cup of tea, then to the long stretch of white beach. At the town’s shoofly deck, I took a moment under the oak to admire the dripping Spanish moss. In the slowness I began to appreciate the moment, to listen, to look, to observe all that was around me, all the while discovering who I was inside. Away from the frenzy of urban life, Bay Saint Louis gave me pause to think and the energetic space to write. And, there is much to write about! With drama, grit, beauty, character, and color around every corner; Bay Saint Louis offers so much sugar for a writer looking for ideas. Rumbles of a train. Sticky hands after crawfish. Long, lazy porches for impromptu hellos. Morning dew and sweat falling from trees like the drizzle of rain. Crab Fest, Pirate Fest, Bridge Fest, Second Saturday. Heat rising from an August midnight. The yellow light of the 100 Men Hall on a foggy night. Candied bacon from the Sycamore House. And, of course the whirring of an espresso maker as Laura or Whitney, still ten years later, greet you from behind the counter of the Mockingbird. (While not one single scene in "The Elegant Out" was set at this iconic establishment, many first drafts were written here.) All the bits and pieces I picked up around town began to inform the novel, from the blue house on Carroll Avenue to the carpool line at North Bay Elementary to Hairworks, where vines choked the outside A/C unit and sparked an idea for the protagonist in "The Elegant Out." Want I wanted to achieve didn’t seem so impossible wrapped in the down comforter of Bay Saint Louis. Over the years, our life in the Bay became a beautiful rut. I had resisted that dependable structure for so long; thinking I was only interesting, or likeable if I was moving and shaking. In the end, the laid-back, daily rhythm of this charming coastal town became my salvation and my transformation. When I stopped to acknowledge how much that rut stabilized and sourced me, the words unraveled; I rushed home to write them.
Please join Elizabeth Bartasius for a book signing and reading on Wednesday, May 15 at 5:30 pm:
Smith and Lens Gallery 106 South 2nd Street Bay St. Louis
During the Second Saturday Artwalk each month in Old Town Bay St. Louis, you'll find cool deals, fresh meals and lots of art and live music!
Be sure to check out "Hot Spots" Bay Books (131 Main Street) and Creole Creamery (209 Main Street). Read more about these featured businesses below! - stories by Caroline St. Paul, photos by Caroline St. Paul and Ellis Anderson
Bay Books
131 Main Street Bay St. Louis 228.463.2688 Website Bay Books, located on Main Street, is the quintessential small-town book store. That is just what owner, Jeremy Burke, wanted to open in Old Town. Burke and his wife purchased the store in 2011. He recalls, “When we found out it was for sale, we knew we just had to buy it because we didn’t want our community, or county, without an independent bookstore.”
Unlike large chain and online bookstores, at Bay Books there is a real sense of community and personalized service. The most satisfying aspect of owning the bookstore is “being an asset to the community.” He maintains a good relationship with the local schools, and he ensures that the store carries the books that the students need. Children’s literacy played a large part in inspiring Burke to open Bay Books. “Literacy is an important issue for us, especially children’s literacy,” he said. After opening, his first order of business was expanding the children’s section. There, you will find options for newborns to teenagers. Another best-selling category are the local books. Burke strives to “stock as many local books, as well as local authors, as we can.” You will find independent and self-published authors here as well. “We want to be able to have something that nobody else has.”
Also available in this charming shop located on “Main Street USA” are local history books and used books at affordable prices. For the upcoming summer months, you will find required summer reading for students, as well as enjoyable, light-hearted summer reads for the beach. Burke holds a book-signing every Second Saturday. On May 11, come meet author Shelby Harriel, who will be signing copies of her book, “Behind the Rifle: Women Soldiers in Civil War Mississippi”. Enjoy live music sponsored by The People’s Bank, Hancock Whitney Bank and The First. Burke’s customer service and dedication to his customers is incredible. Make sure to visit his quaint shop and find your next great read!
Creole Creamery
209 Main Street Bay St. Louis 228.363.2881 Website Everyone loves ice cream! Experience New Orleans flavor at Creole Creamery on the Bay. The happy little ice cream shop was opened by Jim MacPhaille just in time for Cruisin’ the Coast in October, 2018. MacPhaille chose to open a location in Bay St. Louis, as he saw it as a great spot that is growing every day. Located on Prytania Street in New Orleans, The Creole Creamery has become an iconic part of the city. Now, this New Orleans favorite can be experienced in Old Town, as the ice cream is homemade and shipped into town every Friday. The interior of the shop was also purposely designed to resemble the popular spot in New Orleans.
Pink and white checkered floors and the smell of freshly made waffle cones welcome you into the shop, where you’ll be greeted by manager, Hannah McRainey, or another delightful employee. Taste some of their best sellers, Black & Gold Crunch, Cookie Monster, Creole Cream Cheese, or Lavender Honey. You will not be disappointed in the unique flavors here, with options changing with the seasons. Hannah’s favorite part about managing the shop is “interacting with people and the kids” as well as the tourists, and answering any questions they have. “We’ve been here for a short amount of time, but we have a lot of regulars, and I look forward to seeing them,” she says. “Who can be mad in an ice cream shop?” You are guaranteed to walk out of The Creole Creamery happy and satisfied. The shop's hours are currently 1 pm-9 pm Monday through Thursday; 1 pm-10 pm Friday; noon-10 pm Saturday, and noon-9 pm Sunday, with extended hours for the summer months. Visit today and experience delicious ice cream at Creole Creamery on the Bay! Entertainment for May 11 Second Saturday Art Walk is sponsored by Hancock/Whitney Bank, The People’s Bank, and The First. Enjoy them as a hot spot all month.
Avast, ye swabbies and scurvy dogs - don your swashbuckling finery and enjoy the parrrr-ty in the Bay St. Louis historic district!
- story by Lisa Monti, photos by Ellis Anderson and Lionel Haynes, Jr.
The event includes fireworks, the Pirate Play Zone kid’s playground and costume contest, a pub crawl and riverboat cruise for adult pirates, belly dancers, live music and craft vendors. The fest has become so popular that it has earned a spot in the Top 20 events in the Southeast. Organizers expect 3,000-plus people over the May 17-18 weekend. “Pirate Central” will be anchored at the corner of Beach Boulevard and Court Street, with vendors set up across Court Street. As you might expect from the Seahorse Krewe, this bunch of pirates knows how to throw a party. The celebration starts on Thursday night with a special party for sponsors and members. The $25 ticket price includes drinks and food. The general public festivities kick off at 4 pm on Friday, May 17 with the arrival of the pirates. On Friday evening you can buy a $20 ticket to the Pirate’s Pub Crawl, with a dozen local businesses participating, a scavenger hunt, and the Castaways playing music at 8 pm. This adults-only event requires tickets, which can be purchased in advance or at Pirate Central that day.
On Saturday, the Lil’ Buccaneers’ Parade starts at 11 am. Led by the Bay Ratz Marching Battery, the parade will begin at the corner of Main and Second Streets and end at Pirate Central. The costume contest, complete with prizes, begins at 1 pm. Kids can also enjoy the Pirate Play Zone, open from 11 am until 7 pm (fee required for entrance). Saturday’s Pirate Cruise on the Betsy Ann riverboat is sold out, but you can enjoy the Pirate Invasion Parade when they come ashore around 5 pm. Free non-ticketed activities in and around Pirate Central include performances by two local dance studios: Arabesque and the Studio of Classique Vibe and belly dancing by Amira. Vendors will be selling crafts all day, and Dr. Rock and the Interns will perform from 7 to 11 pm. Pirate Day wraps up at 9 pm with fireworks over the harbor, sponsored by the Silver Slipper Casino. The event sponsors are Silver Slipper Casino, ABC Rental, Bayou Caddy Utility South, Rosetti’s Liquor Barrel, Vintage Lighthouse and Beacon Theater.
Rosetti said the Seahorse Krewe stays active all year and continues to grow, signing up locals and residents from Louisiana and north of I-10 as members on a weekly basis. Total membership stands at nearly 300.
Besides Pirate Day there’s the Seahorse Open, held the third weekend in October, the fun-packed Lundi Gras golf cart parade, and the Inspection Ball in June to announce the Krewe’s king and queen. “Then once a month we have a membership social at a business in town that has anywhere from 75 to 125 people,” Rosetti said. Krewe members also take part in the Biloxi Shucker Halfway to Mardi Gras celebration and recently took second place in the Dancing with the Relay Stars in the fundraising division. “Overall we went to continue to grow each year so we can give more and more back to the community,” Rosetti said. The Krewe’s debut five years ago was part of the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Bay St. Louis, which featured a rousing reenactment between two Biloxi schooners. Look for another reenactment Dec. 12-13 for the 205th anniversary of the battle. Details can be found on the Krewe’s website or their Facebookpage.
In the writer's open letter to the author of this compelling book, he explains why he cannot review it.
- story by Scott Naugle, photos by Patrick O'Connor
Dearest Margaret,
It was almost fifteen years ago that I first reviewed and wrote about one of your books, “How I Found the Strong,” for a literary magazine. Your family’s history, on your father’s side, was the impetus for the young adult novel. While we were friends at the time, we’ve become closer. I consider your family an extended family – your mother Madeleine, husband Pat, and your son James, whom I still can’t believe the years have passed so quickly that he is graduating from college next weekend. You’ve hung up on me during phone conversations and slapped a cellphone out of my hand when I was texting and driving (you were right to do this, even underscoring it with adult language). For these reasons, I struggled with whether I would have the professional distance to review and discuss “Where the Angels Lived”. How could I pass judgement on the intensely personal and compelling work of a close friend? Transparency is always the correct approach, so if I am asked to review your most recent work, I’ll be transparent about our long friendship. I wanted you to know this. Your love for your family, past and present, and their histories appear to be a consistent motivation for your intellectual work. “How I Found the Strong” was inspired by a long-lost manuscript, “The Life and Times of Frank Russell.” Frank Russell was the great-uncle of your grandmother on the McMullan side and dictated his remembrances of life in Smith County, Mississippi. As you recollected in the novel’s afterword, “the part of Frank’s story that interested me the most, however, was what he did not talk about.” A historical detective, you used the facts at hand and created the story of the young fictionalized Frank Russell into an award-winning novel. A few years later, in 2008, you visited the Holocaust Museum and learned of a relative you had never heard of – “Richárd.” The museum archivist looked at you and declared, “Look at me, you are the first to ask about him. Do you understand? No one has ever asked about this man, your relative, Richárd. No one ever printed out his name. You are responsible now. You must remember him in order to honor him.” As the curious and impassioned intellectual I know you to be, you had no choice but to learn more about Richárd Engel de Jánosi. Like the nonfiction manuscript of Frank Russell that you spun into a beautiful novel, you were presented again with a previously unknown, and hidden, piece of your family’s history. The story of Richárd Engel de Jánosi is so incredible, though, that a nonfiction exhumation of your family’s story through research is the appropriate platform. Life is stranger, and far more brutal, than fiction. But against what may be the safe or prudent thing to do, in a Hungary that remains deeply anti-Semitic, you traveled to ask questions about a Jewish uncle that you never knew existed nor was ever acknowledged in any way. You met resistance, both official and subtle. As I turned the pages of the advance copy of “Where the Angels Lived” that you were kind enough to give me a few months ago, I feared for your safety. As you recollect in “Where the Angels Lived”, “Never heard of him,” your mother snaps when you ask about Richard. “You must have it wrong. I don’t have time for this.” Madeleine McMullan hangs up.
Richárd was the son of your great-grandfather, Adolf, as your research in Hungary revealed. Adolf created a vast business empire of land-holdings, lumber, and coal by his mid-thirties. He started without a penny and succeeded despite the anti-Jewish legislation in Hungary. He had to pay “tolerance taxes.” You speculate, “Maybe he was granted immunity as a Jew because he took such good care of his mostly Catholic workers. He built them homes, schools, bathhouses, and churches. He paid for their teachers and priests.”
All of this began to fall apart in the years leading up to 1944. And while many members of the Engel de Jánosi family sent their money to Swiss bank accounts, converted to Catholicism, changed their names, or took the opportunity to leave the country early, Richárd, strong and quietly defiant, resisted. One of the most beautiful passages in your book is when you use your considerable talents as a novelist to bring Richárd to life for us from the few facts about him: “He looks to be the kind of relative I would have loved – tall, distant, cool. The quiet type, pensive and precise. I would have tried to make him laugh… He looks so sure of himself, even a little defiant, stubborn. Maybe too proud. Maybe he believed too much in his own decency, maybe that’s what got him killed.” What you later learn is that your mother, at the age of ten in April 1939, was spirited from Hofzeile, the family estate, at night with her mother, your grandmother, Carlette. “My mother wore a dark blue coat several sizes too big so that she could grow in to it. My mother had the red measles, which had spread into her eyes. [My grandmother] told my mother not to look back, to never look back.”
Later, as the train was stopped at the border crossing, “the German fear of germs” prevented the officers who boarded the train from entering the cabin where your mother suffered. “Carlette slid the papers under the door… They kept their gloves on… held the documents at the corners” and quickly stamped them.
Learning all of this was too much for you. Against your grandmother’s advice to your mother eighty years ago, you had looked back. “Sitting there in the pew carved of Moravian oak, I start to shake. I curse every last Hungarian who deported or murdered my family. See, Look at me. My mother got out and she had me and I had a son. You didn’t end us.” Richárd, as you learned, stayed and administered the family businesses until he was met at his front door “by a black car with swastikas on the doors.” He was loaded onto a cattle car and taken to the concentration camp in Mauthausen. Your mother never discussed the Hungarian side of the family, instead selectively acknowledging the French lineage of her mother’s side. You found and communicated with the only other living member of the Engel de Jánosi family of your mother’s generation, Anna Stein. Recovering from your father’s death and healing from a new hip, your mother was willing to return to Europe in 2013. As your mother and Anna meet, you reflect that “Keeping secrets kept them alive, but that’s also how they lost contact with their families… They both know how to suffer and they both know how to worry… It’s the living they sometimes have trouble with.” After the visit with Anna Stein, you boarded a bus with your mother and she begins to cry, “Her weeping becomes guttural, the same sound she made the day my father died. Her slight shoulders shake and she puts her head into the crook of my arm. She is crying for everything and everyone – her dead husband, her father, her mother, her lost family and country. She is crying for herself and for all those in her family she knew and never knew.” And this Margaret, my dear friend, is what I have to tell you in this long letter – I won’t be able to review “Where the Angels Lived” if asked. It’s too close. It’s emotional – and yet, in the end filled with hope and love and leaves me with a sense of a future for humanity because of what you did. I cannot add words or commentary to something so beautifully lived and written. With much love, -Scott
“Where the Angels Lived: One Family’s Story of Exile, Loss, and Return”
By Margaret McMullan Calypso Editions ISBN: 9781944593087 $19.95
Books may be ordered (and shipped, if requested) here.
Our local music historian waxes nostalgic about the Bay St. Louis of his youth, and how local bands influenced his life.
- story by Pat Murphy
Waveland Alderman Jeremy Burke reports on the start of Waveland's new sidewalk project, the St. Clare Seafood Festival and the lighthouse ribbon-cutting ceremony.
Waveland Avenue will remain open throughout the duration of the project, although intermittent lane closures may occur as needed to accommodate construction. The project is broken down into four sections in order to reduce the inconvenience to homeowners along Waveland Avenue. The first section of construction will be from Highway 90 to Rue De Lasalle, second section is Rue De Lasalle to Herlihy, third section is Herlihy to Sycamore and final section is Sycamore to end of project. All drainage will be complete, cut driveways repaired and sidewalks complete before the contractor can proceed to the next section of project. This project has been in the works since 2015, and I’m excited to see we are finally heading down the home stretch. The project will make travel a lot easier and safer for pedestrians. It is anticipated that the project will be completed during the summer of 2020.
St. Clare Seafood Festival
The St. Clare Seafood Festival has grown into the marquee festival in Hancock County for the Memorial Day weekend. The festival runs Friday, May 24, 5–11 pm, Saturday, May 25, 11 am–11 pm, and Sunday, May 26, noon to 10 pm The festival features food, carnival rides, craft vendors, and the best free Memorial Day weekend live entertainment anywhere on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Please make plans to have a good time while supporting St. Clare this Memorial Day weekend.
Ribbon-Cutting for the Waveland Lighthouse
I'm extremely proud to offer this facility to the residents and visitors to Waveland. The Waveland Lighthouse and Pavilion will be an anchor for the continue growth of Waveland.
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